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Danielle Johnston
Imagine you are a U.S. citizen in Ghana doing volunteer work and you are awakened to screams and the pounding of running feet. When you look outside, you see hundreds of men–your neighbors, people you’ve come to care about–running for the bush, running for their lives, as the women of the town scream for them to “run faster”, their faces wet with tears. Imagine having to watch helplessly as armed Ghanian policemen roam through the town, arresting every man they can find, breaking into homes and dragging them from churches and even public bathrooms, while your embassy tells you to get out of town for your own safety. Now imagine a few months later, you return from Africa with a deadly form of malaria that causes your liver to start to shut down and puts you in the hospital for a week of blood and plasma transfusions. Your family doesn’t know if you’re going to survive.
Danielle Johnston doesn’t need to imagine these things; she’s lived them. Danielle has been to 20 countries and speaks four languages (English, Spanish, French, and Arabic), two fluently. I first met Danielle several years ago and have followed her travels on her personal blog with interest ever since. Danielle was kind enough to allow me to interview her recently, as I wanted to give you a different perspective of solo travel than the one you normally get from me. I hope you enjoy getting to know her as much as I have.
At the Red Sea
SF: When did you first start traveling and what countries have you been to?
DJ: My parents were always big on taking us around the U.S. to see our country and we traveled quite a bit to the Caribbean, Mexico and of course, Canada. I went to Argentina at 16 and at 21 to Chile as an exchange student. I obtained my Bachelor’s Degree in International Affairs and Hispanic Studies. I lived for a year in the Dominican Republic and have been all over South America, Africa and now the Middle East. I have been to 20 countries thus far (Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Chile, Jamaica, Ghana, Togo, Ivory Coast, Kenya, Qatar, Jordan, etc.) and have plans to head to Bahrain, Turkey, Greece, Lebanon, Syria and India in the next 6 months. I am currently living in Cairo, Egypt obtaining my Master’s degree in International Human Rights Law with a Graduate Diploma in Forced Migration and Refugee Studies.
SF: You spent a semester abroad in Chile during college. Why Chile? What was your experience like doing a semester abroad?
DJ: I was a dual degree major in International Relations and Hispanic Studies. I had to spend a semester in a Spanish speaking country to fulfill my degree requirements and my school only offered Spain and Chile as my options. I had absolutely loved living in South America when I was there in high school so I couldn’t pass on the opportunity to return. Any advice – STUDY ABROAD!!! It will be the most amazing, worthwhile and eye-opening experience ever. You will never forget the challenges and the memories will last a lifetime. I am still in close contact with my host families and friends that I made from both my study abroad experience in Argentina in high school and Chile in College.
SF: In 2007-2008, you spent 6 months outside of Accra, Ghana working at a UN Refugee camp for Liberians. What process did you go through to become a volunteer in Ghana? Do you have any advice to offer others considering overseas volunteer work in that region?
DJ: West Africa is amazing. If you can travel there or volunteer in that part of the world – go! You will have an unforgettable time and it will definitely be life-changing! I applied with Global Volunteer Network but there are hundreds of volunteer “companies” that offer programs in Ghana and all around West Africa.
View of Cairo from Zamalek
SF: Among some of the other interesting things you’ve done while abroad are studying Arabic for 3 months in Alexandria, Egypt in 2007 and teaching kindergarten in the Middle East in 2008-09. If someone wanted to follow in your footsteps, how would they go about arranging to do these things?
DJ: The internet is an amazing source to find academic and volunteer programs all around the globe! I really don’t know what I would do without the internet! That is how I’ve found all my programs – volunteer and paid jobs and educational programs. There are a lot of great web sites such as Idealist.org. I find something that I’m really interested in, apply, and then start saving my pennies and vacation days!
SF: Obviously, you loved Egypt, because you’re back there now studying at the University of Cairo. What do you hope to do with your degrees and where do you think they’ll take you next?
DJ: I’m hoping to either stay here in the Middle East or somewhere in Africa and get a job with a non-governmental organization working in the field of human rights or with refugees – such as Amnesty International, Human Rights Watch, International Rescue Committee, AMERA, etc.
SF: What is it about long-term travel that keeps you going back for more? What’s it like living long-term in a foreign country?
DJ: The truth is that I’ve been leaving and coming for so many years now that the U.S. actually feels like a foreign country to me. Don’t get me wrong, I love coming home and seeing family and friends and having some “American-ness” back in my life but after a few weeks I’m ready to be abroad again. You can have your lonely moments and there are definitely some things that make me say “ahh, I miss America” but overall I’d rather be living abroad than in America. I just feel so comfortable and adjust so well. I love the adventure but also how, after a short time, it can become home.
SF: Do you consider yourself an expatriate?
DJ: I don’t really like the term expatriate because in my experience it seems to have a negative connotation–usually thought of as someone living abroad though remaining in the social network of fellow “expats”, hanging out only with Americans and Europeans so they’re not really living abroad, but in an extension of their home country, if you get what I mean. I see myself more as a global citizen – not really belonging to one place more than any other. Always leaving a piece of myself behind when I leave and always discovering a new piece of myself when I arrive.
Thursday: Danielle offers her advice to solo travelers.
Photo credit: Danielle Johnston.
Could you summarize your background, especially in regards to your travels, for my readers. When did you first started traveling and how many countries have you been to (including some names)? Argentina, Chile, Peru, Egypt, Ghana, Qatar, United Arab Emirates, Sri Lanka, Jordan
My parents were always big on taking us around the U.S. to see our country and we traveled quite a bit to the Caribbean, Mexico and of course, Canada. I went to Argentina at 16 and at 21 to Chile as an exchange student. I obtained my Bachelor's Degree in International Affairs and Hispanic Studies. I lived for a year in the Dominican Republic and have been all over South America, Africa and now the Middle East. I have been to 20 countries thus far (Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Chile, Jamaica, Ghana, Togo, Ivory Coast, Kenya, Qatar, Jordan, etc.) and have plans to head to Bahrain, Turkey, Greece, Lebanon, Syria and India in the next 6 months. I am currently living in Cairo, Egypt obtaining my Master's degree in International Human Rights Law with a Graduate Diploma in Forced Migration and Refugee Studies.
What and when was your first solo trip? What did you learn from that experience?
My first "solo" trip was actually at 16 when I traveled with AFS to Argentina to study abroad for a semester. I had never traveled outside of the U.S. on my own and I was the only American student in my program that did not speak a word of Spanish. It was the most invaluable experience ever. I do not think that I would be where I am today if it had not been for this opportunity. It opened my eyes to the world and everything that is out there and I haven't stopped traveling since. My passion to see the world has only increased as I travel from place to place.
Of the countries you’ve visited, which would you say are most suited to solo travelers? Which ones were a bit more sketchy for solo travel?
South America is a fabulous destination for any solo traveler. It is full of hostels and cheap hotels which makes it super easier to meet new people and find new traveling companions. It is safe and there are so many amazing places to visit - its definitely accessible and easy for anyone to manage getting around from place to place or country to country. West Africa was absolutely amazing and though a bit more "sketchy" for a solo traveler this should not let anyone deter them from taking the leap. Once you've gotten your feet wet with perhaps some other solo traveling experiences everyone should head to West Africa.
How many languages do you speak (and which ones)?
I speak English and Spanish fluently. I understand and read French quite well, though my speaking ability is not great. I am currently enrolled in intensive Arabic courses but I'm still a beginner!
I know you spent a semester abroad in Chile during college. Why Chile? What was your experience like doing a semester abroad (the highs and lows)?
I was a dual degree major in International Relations and Hispanic Studies. I had to spend a semester in a Spanish speaking country to fulfill my degree requirements and my school only offered Spain and Chile as my options. I had absolutely loved living in South America when I was there in high school so I couldn't pass on the opportunity to return. Any advice - STUDY ABROAD!!! It will be the most amazing, worthwhile and eye-opening experience ever. You will never forget the challenges and the memories will last a lifetime. I am still in close contact with my host families and friends that I made from both my study abroad experience in Argentina in high school and Chile in College.
One thing I’ve never gotten a clear picture of from your blog is how you arranged for your travels. If someone wanted to follow in your footsteps, how would they go about arranging to study Arabic in Egypt, become a volunteer in Ghana, teach kindergarten in Dubai, etc.?
The internet is an amazing source to find academic and volunteer programs all around the globe! I really don't know what I would do without the internet! That is how I've found all my programs - volunteer and paid jobs and educational programs. There are a lot of great web sites as well such as http://www.facebook.com/l/6fff9;idealist.org and Global Volunteer Network. I find something that I'm really interested in - apply and then start saving my pennies and vacation days! 
Are you a planner or are you a “fly by the seat of your pants” type of traveler? How much advance research do you do before your travels?
This totally depends on where I am. I'm always up and ready for a weekend away but since a lot of the programs that I have participated in last for at least 3 months I definitely have to do a bit of planning. However, if I am in a country for a period of months I definitely do a lot of "fly by the seat of my pants" planning! I'm always up for a long bus ride or quick flight to see something new and get out of my current location to do something new!
You spent 3 months in Alexandria, Egypt studying Arabic in 2007. Obviously, you loved it, because you’re back in Egypt now studying at the University of Cairo. I know you’re studying for your Master’s in International Human Rights Law with a Graduate Diploma in Forced Migration and Refugee Studies. What do you hope to do with these degrees and where do you think they’ll take you next?
I’m hoping to either stay here in the Middle East or somewhere in Africa and get a job with a non-governmental organization working in the field of human rights or with refugees – such as Amnesty International, Human Rights Watch, International Rescue Committee, AMERA, etc.
Is there anything in particular Westerners need to be aware of when traveling solo to Egypt?
Being a foreign woman anywhere can be difficult, especially in places like the Middle East. It can be very difficult walking down the street because you are constantly harassed. While I feel extremely safe here there are times that the harassment takes its toll and starts to make you feel very angry and cynical towards some of the men here. But I still love Egypt and I love being here and this really shouldn’t stop anyone from coming here.
Likewise, Dubai: You spent a year there teaching kindergarten. What advice would you offer solo travelers to Dubai?
I actually taught in Doha, Qatar last year – a quick 40 minute flight from Dubai. The Gulf region is definitely NOT a place I would recommend to travel to unless of course you want a luxurious holiday. There is no “culture” and its just full of expats and other foreigners from, primarily Asia (who are treated horribly and paid next to nothing to build all the fancy hotels and malls). It’s extremely expensive and there really is nothing to do but stay in a Ritz Carlton or Four Seasons and hang out at the mall. I would recommend Oman – they do have some amazing things to see and do. But I would definitely cross Qatar and the UAE (Dubai) off my list of places to visit. Save your money and go somewhere else!
In 2007-2008, you spent 6 months outside of Accra, Ghana working at a UN Refugee camp for Liberians – with travel in between to Jordan, Kenya, the Ivory Coast, and Togo. What process did you go through to become a volunteer in Ghana? Do you have any advice to offer others considering overseas volunteer work in that region?
West Africa is amazing. If you can travel there or volunteer in that part of the world – GO! You will have an unforgettable time and it will DEFINITELY be life-changing! I applied with Global Volunteer Network but there are hundreds of volunteer “companies” that offer programs in Ghana and all around West Africa.
What have been your most memorable experiences traveling solo—both positive and negative?
Traveling solo can definitely have its lonely moments. But again, I’ve always met wonderful people from all over the place so you’re not lonely for long. It’s also a nice time for yourself to think about things and reflect on life – I find it very therapeutic at times.
Obviously, you love living overseas. What is it about long-term travel that keeps you going back for more? What’s it like living long-term in a foreign country?
The truth is that I’ve been leaving and coming for so many years now that the U.S. actually feels like a foreign country to me. Don’t get me wrong, I love coming home and seeing family and friends and having some “American-ness” back in my life but after a few weeks I’m ready to be abroad again. You can definitely have your lonely moments and there are definitely some things that make me say “ahh, I miss America” but overall I’d rather be living abroad than in America. I just feel so comfortable and adjust so well. I love the adventure but at the same time how just after a short time it can become home. You just have to always remember – it’s not wrong, its just different!
What has been your biggest disappointment and your most pleasant surprise in your travels?
My biggest disappointment is how fast time goes and soon my trip is over and I’m on my way back home. I’ve met the most amazing people traveling. Some of them are my dearest and closest friends now. Even if I haven’t spoken to someone in months and then we suddenly are reconnected through an email, facebook or phone call we always will have that connection of being in that one place at that one time together. That will keep us friends for life because no one else can share that experience with me!
What steps do you take to stay safe when you travel?
I’ve always felt quite safe and have only been in a few situations that I thought were perhaps “sketchy” and a bit unsafe. While I’m cautious I also don’t allow this to get in the way from stopping me from experiencing things. You just have to be sure to assess a situation if you feel like it could become dangerous and really just follow your instinct.
Interested in long-term solo travel, but not sure where to start? You can now buy The Art of Solo Travel: A Girl’s Guide by Stephanie Lee, which contains all the basic information you need to get started on your long-term solo journey. Read my review of the book here.
on Feb 2nd, 2010 at 1:00 pm
Great interview. Danielle's experiences sound intense but enriching, I'm not sure I'd have the courage to do all those things!
on Feb 2nd, 2010 at 5:45 pm
Me too, Steph. I'm in awe of her.
on Feb 4th, 2010 at 7:10 am
[...] of solo traveler (me). I’m a short-term traveler, a vacation traveler if you will. Tuesday, I introduced you to my friend Danielle Johnston, a radically different type of solo traveler, and noted some scary travel episodes she has [...]
on Feb 5th, 2010 at 5:00 am
Wonderful interview, Gray. Danielle's life choices sound very inspiring… even with the scary things she's experienced, its a very full life.
- “Always leaving a piece of myself behind when I leave and always discovering a new piece of myself when I arrive.”
Beautiful sentiment. =-)
on Feb 5th, 2010 at 6:08 pm
That was my favorite quote too.
on Jul 2nd, 2010 at 5:51 am
Thank you so much for your blog, and for interviewing Danielle.
I too consider myself a global citizen as opposed to an expatriate. One of my favourite parts of travelling is getting to know the locals and really experiencing the culture, and what they experience. It's certainly a necessity for me to also have friends whose first language is English as well, as so many things are lost in translation, but nothing erks me more than people who live abroad and don't even attempt to learn the language and culture, won't try the food, don't make friends with locals, and just stick to other foreigners like glue. I often wonder what the point is in living abroad if you show no interest in your host country.
I've been living in South Korea teaching English as a second language to kindergarten and elementary school kids for the last 16 months. I have two months left to my contract and I am now in the process of planning a 6-7 month backpacking trip through 7 or 8 countries starting in Indonesia and working my way to India where I will live for a month becoming a certified Yoga Instructor.
I couldn't have read this article at a better time really, so thank you both for sharing so much!
on Jul 4th, 2010 at 11:18 pm
Hi, Meagan, thanks for your comment! I like your attitude about living in another country. Are you following Grrrltraveler.com? She's in South Korea teaching right now, too!