Barcelona from Parc Guell

There are so many reasons to visit Barcelona, Spain, from its gorgeous architecture and location as a port city on the Mediterranean to its museums and pretty Spanish plazas. When you start planning your trip to Barcelona, one of the first questions you’ll probably ask is: What’s the best way to get around the city? That depends on where you stay and where you plan to go. Unless you’re going to rent a car, vespa or bicycle, your transportation options fall pretty much under these categories:

Walking

Assuming you have no mobility problems, Barcelona is a very walkable city. There are many sights you can see on foot if you stay in a central location (or if you’re in port for the day). I stayed at a fairly central hostal near Placa Catalunya and walked to Passeig de Gracia to see Casa Battlo and Casa Mila; all the way down Via Laietana to Port Vell; to the Picasso Museum and the City History Museum; down La Rambla; and to the Maremagnum.

Typical hop-on, hop-off bus

The Hop-On, Hop-Off Tourist Bus

There are two companies that offer hop-on, hop-off (HOHO) tours, and both offer at least two routes that will take you to the major tourist sites in the city. This is the easiest option for tourists, and also one of the more expensive. Keep in mind the hours are limited and you’ll waste a lot of time compared with taking the metro, because you’ll have to sit through the whole route (even after you’ve seen everything you want to see). Both depart from Placa Catalunya, where you can buy your tickets.

The Barcelona Metro

Next to walking, the metro is always my preferred mode of transportation in new cities. But I’ll admit, I was a little intimidated by the scores of reports I’d read online about how rampant pickpocketing is there. I had all sorts of visions in my head of going down into some subterranean Mad Max-like landscape if I took the metro. Nothing could have been further from the truth.

Don’t get me wrong: Pickpocketing is prevalent here. But if you take precautions to secure your valuables (a money belt, a sealed inside pocket, a travel security bag like PacSafe, or this neat trick I just read over on TravelDudes.com), you’ll be fine. Other advice that worked for me was:

• If you’re buying tickets on the spot, make sure you have your money ready in advance, so you’re not digging through your bag for it;
• Study your route before you get there; and
• Wait at the center of the platform rather than the end, since pickpockets tend to stick close to the exits.

My actual experience with the Barcelona metro was one of pleasant surprise. It was clean, it was easy to get around (far less walking than the Paris metro!), the signage was good, and the ticketing machines had an English option, which made them very easy to use. No one bothered me, followed me, or tried to pick my pocket, and I was always able to get a seat. The metro is a real time-saver, and I recommend using it–just do be sure to take the precautions noted above.

Barcelona

The most useful metro lines for visitors are:

• The L3 Green Line, which will take you to Montjuic (including the Olympic Stadium, Montjuic Castle, the Spanish Village, and the National Palace/MNAC), the Magic Fountains, Placa d’Espanya, Sants Station (where you can catch the AVE train to other cities in Spain), the Port of Barcelona, the Maritime Museum, the Aquarium, the Barri Gotic district (the old city), La Rambla, Parc Guell (with a 20-minute walk up a steep hill), Casa Mila, Casa Battlo, and Placa Catalunya, a central plaza in the city. (Placa Catalunya is also a hub station, linking to other lines.)

• The L4 Yellow Line, which will take you to the City History Museum, the Picasso Museum, and Barceloneta Beach.

• The L2 Purple Line, which will take you to La Sagrada Familia.

City Bus

The bus system seemed more difficult to figure out than the metro, so I didn’t use it. If you’re not going to be in Barcelona very long, you can probably live without it. Or you can find routes and schedules at their website.

Taxi

Taxis are quick and direct, but also more expensive. I’d recommend it if you have a lot of luggage or to save time getting directly to Parc Guell. Taking public transportation to Parc Guell can be complicated and involves walking up hill. There are always taxis outside the Parc to take you wherever you want to go next.

Cable car to Montjuic

Funicular and Cable Car

If you’re going to Montjuic Castle, there is a funicular that will transport you from the L3 Metro: Paral-lel station to the cable car. There is also a cable car from the Port of Barcelona to the Miramar gardens on Montjuic.

As you can see, you have plenty of options for getting around Barcelona. It’s not as spread out as you think, and most of the sights you’ll want to see as a visitor are in fairly compact areas. Personally, I recommend walking as much as possible and taking the metro as a backup. But most of all, I recommend visiting Barcelona!

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Getting Around Barcelona is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

Bourbon Street

Three years after my visit to New Orleans, I still sigh when I think about the city. I loved everything about it–the history, the culture (one of the most diverse in the country), the food, the music, the geography, and the fun-loving, indomitable spirit of the people who live there. When I recently asked you “where are you going in 2012,” several of you mentioned New Orleans. I can’t tell you how happy that makes me! In case it helps you with your trip planning, here is my list of things to do in New Orleans–crucial New Orleans experiences and a couple I just want you to know about. Enjoy!

Experience Bourbon Street

This is a must-do for the New Orleans visitor, if only to say you’ve done it. It’s Party Central. People wander down the street with drinks in hand (yes, oftentimes drunk), in and out of bars checking out the live music. The scene here is not for everyone, but it’s worth experiencing once.

Big Al Carson at the Funky Pirate

Listen to Live Music

New Orleans is the birthplace of jazz. You’ll find all kinds of live music on (and slightly off) Bourbon Street, including jazz at Preservation Hall (St. Peter Street, just off Bourbon), the dueling pianos at Pat O’Briens (also on St. Peter Street), and the awesome Big Al Carson (blues) at the Funky Pirate. On Bourbon Street, there are rock cover bands, Dixieland jazz bands, and Cajun bands as well. Or go where the locals go to hear good jazz and blues: Frenchmen Street. But likely you’ll be hearing music everywhere you go around the French Quarter.

New Orleans Streetcar

Ride the Streetcars

This is a classic New Orleans experience. Not only are they colorful, but they’re a handy and inexpensive way of getting around the city. There are three streetcar lines in New Orleans: The Canal Streetcar, the Riverside Streetcar, and the St. Charles Streetcar.

Grilled oysters

Sample the Local Cuisine

If you eat nothing but pizza and cheeseburgers in New Orleans, there is something seriously wrong with you. Cajun and Creole cooking is part of the allure of visiting New Orleans, and it would be a shame if you didn’t try some of the local specialties while you’re here. How about some gumbo, jambalaya, red beans and rice, turtle soup, po’ boys, muffuletta sandwiches, shrimp creole, crawfish étouffée, or grilled oysters? You can also get traditional southern specialties like grits and fried green tomatoes. Particular dining experiences I recommend:

• Lunch at Commander’s Palace Combine this with a tour of Lafayette No. 1 Cemetery across the street. Commander’s Palace offers one of the best dining experiences in New Orleans, and 25 cent martinis during lunch.
• Try a beignet at Cafe du Monde It’s touristy, it’s crowded, and you might not even like beignets (I didn’t), but it’s one of those quintessential New Orleans experiences you simply have to try. What is a beignet? It’s a donut generously dusted with powdered sugar.

Lafayette Cemetery No 1

Take a Cemetery Tour

The cemeteries of New Orleans are renowned for their tombs. I visited Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 in the Garden District, which is over 170 years old and is on the National Register of Historic Places. I booked my tour with a group called Save Our Cemeteries. The profits earned on their tours goes directly to preserve and restore New Orleans historical cemeteries.

Steamboat Natchez on the Mississippi River

Stroll Along the Mississippi River

Or if you prefer, take a ride on the Steamboat Natchez. But don’t visit New Orleans without seeing the “Mighty Mississippi.”

Jackson Square

Visit Jackson Square

You’ve no doubt seen the photos of Andrew Jackson on horseback in front of St. Louis Cathedral in New Orleans. That is Jackson Square, in the heart of the French Quarter. The square is surrounded by some of New Orleans’ finest museums, including the Cabildo.

Courtyard fountain at a private home in the Garden District

Tour the Garden District

The Garden District is home to a lot of really beautiful old mansions from the 1800s. If you enjoy architecture, this is a must-see. Hop on the St. Charles Streetcar to get there from the French Quarter. The Garden District is bounded by St. Charles Avenue, 1st Street, Magazine Street, and Toledano Street.

The spooky side of New Orleans awaits

Go on a Ghost Tour of the French Quarter

A friend of mine recommended I go on a ghost tour, and I’m so glad I did. This was a lot of fun! My guide, Carla, was a New Orleans native (of both Creole and Cajun descent) and was fabulously theatrical when the subject matter called for it. It wasn’t particularly scary, but I heard a lot of good stories that night.

Mardi Gras exhibit

Mardi Gras or the Mardi Gras Museum

If you’re not able to visit New Orleans during Mardi Gras, try the next best thing: Visit Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World or the Presbytere off Jackson Square, where you can learn about the history of Mardi Gras in New Orleans and view a large collection of Mardi Gras artifacts.

Old Absinthe House

Sip Some Local Cocktails

Try the fruity, rum-based Hurricane at Pat O’Brien’s or Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop (a bar), a Pimm’s Cup at Napoleon House, a Ramos Gin Fizz at the Old Absinthe House, or the Sazerac at the Carousel Bar at the Hotel Monteleone. (The Carousel Bar is worth seeing even if you don’t drink.) I don’t recommend the Hand Grenade unless you have an extremely high tolerance for alcohol—it contains gin, vodka, rum, grain alcohol and melon liqueur. If you prefer beer, I can highly recommend the locally-brewed Abita brand. PSA: Go slowly with the drinking when you’re traveling solo. Being pickpocketed is the least of your worries when you’re tipsy. End PSA.

New Orleans wetland

See “Hurricane on the Bayou” at the IMAX Theater

I know some people would scoff at the idea of taking precious exploration time in a new city to stop and watch a movie, but this isn’t just any movie. (And it’s only 42 minutes long.) “Hurricane on the Bayou” documents the story of Louisiana’s disappearing wetlands and the impact that had when hurricane Katrina ripped through the region. It is beautifully filmed and very educational. Bring tissues; it’s pretty emotional, too.

City Park

Visit City Park

While it doesn’t need to be included on a list of things to do in New Orleans, if you want to get outdoors in New Orleans and commune with nature, City Park is a great place to do that. I saw just a small fraction of the park—a very pretty river with swans gliding by and picturesque stone bridges, gazebos, Spanish moss on the trees and walking oaks–but I loved it. I wish I’d had more time here. You can get to City Park by streetcar.

And finally. . . .

Talk to the Locals Every Chance You Get

I had the best time just talking to locals in New Orleans. Everyone seems to have a story of some kind to tell. I heard some hairy Katrina survivor stories and some sad stories about loved ones who didn’t survive. I learned about the education system in the city from two teachers who work there. Waitresses called me “hon” all the time, even when they were young enough to be my daughter. It was charming.

Have you been to New Orleans? What else do you consider a “must do” for anyone visiting the city?

Things to Do in New Orleans is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

Citywalk

Ask almost any regular Orlando visitor which has the best nightlife options–Universal Orlando’s CityWalk or Disney World’s Downtown Disney–and the majority will say: CityWalk. I would have also said this, even before I visited CityWalk for the first time (mainly because I’m still bitter about Disney shutting down the Adventurer’s Club). And yet if you look at it purely from the numbers, CityWalk offers almost nothing that Downtown Disney doesn’t:

Disclaimer: Numbers are approximate; I may have missed some things.

Is this a case of “perception is reality”? Maybe it’s less about categories and more about specific offerings? Or perhaps it has more to do with the customer demographics at each place? For me, and for other adults traveling without children, CityWalk may be more appealing because it seems to offer a more adult-oriented experience at night than Downtown Disney does. That’s not to say you won’t see children in strollers at CityWalk or that there are no bars in Downtown Disney, but there seems to be a more adult atmosphere at CityWalk.

Nightlife at CityWalk

There is certainly nothing obvious about the retail experiences at each to suggest that one would appeal more to an adult crowd than the other. However, CityWalk does have more chain restaurants that may appeal to the masses (Hard Rock Cafe, Margaritaville, Bubba Gump, etc.) and nightlife options that project more of a “party” atmosphere (Hard Rock Live, Pat O’Briens, Fat Tuesdays, the groove, etc.). This explains why young adults looking for a club scene gravitate to CityWalk, not Disney World.

Hard Rock Cafe CityWalk

CityWalk wins hands-down in terms of ease in getting to it from anywhere else on Universal’s property and then getting around it. Because of how spread out Disney World is, it can take as long as 45 minutes to get to Downtown Disney from certain resorts and parks. Whereas Universal is so compact that CityWalk is a quick walk or boat ride away from any of the furthest points on property. CityWalk is also shaped like a ring, which makes getting around quicker and easier than getting from the far end of Disney’s West Side to the far end of Disney’s Marketplace.

Retail, dining and entertainment at CityWalk

If I thought Disney World executives actually gave a damn about its childless adult guests, I would suggest they made a strategic error by splitting the property’s nightlife options between two distinctly different areas–Downtown Disney and the Boardwalk–which are nowhere near each other.  For guests stuck on site without a car, you have to make a choice about where you plan to spend the evening, either/or. It’s more difficult to move from say, a movie at Downtown Disney’s cineplex to dueling pianos at Jellyrolls on the Boardwalk; whereas it’s quite easy to go from CityWalk’s movie theater to Pat O’Brien’s dueling pianos–which is just up a set of stairs. But ultimately, I don’t think Disney execs care about offering adult-oriented nightlife.

Citywalk is a short (and pretty) walk or boat ride from the resorts

Does this mean I’m going to switch my allegiance from Disney World to Universal? Er, no. What it means is that I can appreciate that each park does some things better than the other, which makes them both equally worth a visit. What Universal does very well is nightlife, and that’s mostly because of CityWalk. Now, your mileage may vary; if you’re a major Disney fan, you may prefer to be surrounded by everything Disney, all the time. But if you’re visiting Orlando and nightlife is very important to you, do yourself a favor and check out CityWalk.

Margaritaville's Porch of Indecision

Have you visited both CityWalk and Downtown Disney? Which did you prefer, and why?

Universal’s CityWalk vs. Downtown Disney is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

Are you sick of reading about other people’s New Year’s resolutions yet? Well, don’t worry, I don’t believe in resolutions. But I do believe in planning out my travel for the year in January, because otherwise, it wouldn’t happen. After all, I’ve got to get the time off from work, coordinate my vacation schedule with those of my coworkers, save the money for my trips, research destinations, etc.

This year, I reviewed my travel bucket list and decided to go to the places at or near the top–the places I most want to visit. Unfortunately, that means I’ve got two very expensive destinations planned this year. Gulp. How do I plan to pay for these very expensive trips? That’s a subject best left for a future blog post. The question of today is: Where am I going?

Honolulu, Hawaii

I had to postpone this trip from 2011, so I decided to make it a priority for 2012. It will never be a cheap trip for me, since I have to fly from Vermont, but it’s much cheaper to go there any week except Christmas. (For example, airfare was almost exactly 50% of what it would have cost to fly there Christmas week.) So at the end of February, I’ll be winging my way to Waikiki. God help me, I’m not looking forward to the long flying days to and from (roughly 20 hours each way, including sitting around in airports), but I think it will be worth it. On my itinerary are things like Pearl Harbor, Diamond Head, Waikiki Beach, the North Shore, the Dole Plantation, the Polynesian Cultural Center, and more. I want to sample some local beers from the Kona Brewing Company. I want to try Hawaiian specialty foods like shave ice and the Dole Whip. I want to learn a few words and phrases in Hawaiian, see how leis are made and maybe take a ukelele lesson. Will I have time for all these things? Who knows. But since Hawaii is one of the most culturally unique states in the US, I can’t wait to learn more about its history and culture in person.

The Norwegian Epic in the Port of Barcelona

The Mediterranean

In early May, I’ll be headed to Europe for a Mediterranean cruise aboard my old friend, the Norwegian Epic. Squee! I have already booked my Studio Stateroom. This is the trip I considered taking last year, but one thing held me back: I just didn’t know how I could possibly stand only having one day in Rome (can you imagine trying to see Rome in one day?) and having to choose spending time in Naples, Pompeii, or the Amalfi Coast during my one port day in Naples. Seems unfair, doesn’t it?

Well, this year, the schedule has changed enough to work for me. In addition to the Sunday-Sunday cruises that sail out of Barcelona, Spain, the Epic is now offering the opportunity to sail Wednesday-Wednesday out of Civitavecchia, Italy (near Rome). This means I can fly in early and spend a couple of days exploring Rome before my cruise, and another day after. I’ll still only have the one day in the port of Naples, so I’ve decided I’m going to have to throw Naples under the bus (or the boat, as the case may be) and go on a combination Pompeii/Amalfi Coast shore excursion during that day. And now that I’m getting the days I want in Rome, I’m okay with that. Other ports of call are Livorno, Italy (from which I can get to Florence); Nice, France (from which I could also go to Monte Carlo if I prefer); Provence (Marseilles), France; and my favorite Spanish city, Barcelona.

Would I prefer to travel slowly across Italy? Sure. But I honestly don’t have the time for that right now. And there’s no law that says I can’t go back to any of these places if I find I like them so much I’d like to experience them on a deeper level later on.

Mountains around Las Vegas

Las Vegas

I’ll be making my annual sojourn to my favorite city during Labor Day week in the fall, same as always. I’ve already started collecting a list of “new things” to do while I’m there. But I really, really have got to make it a priority this year to get out and see Red Rock Canyon or Valley of Fire—or maybe even take a couple of days to visit the Grand Canyon, which I’ve only seen via helicopter, never on foot. I’ll also be hosting the 2^nd Annual Vegas Solo Meetup that week, if anyone is thinking they’d like to come. During the summer, I’ll post details about that meetup at The Vegas Solo.

Road Trips and Miscellaneous Travel Daydreaming

Those are the major trips I’m taking in 2012, and they are plenty expensive enough that from a practical standpoint, I should stop there. But. . .but. . .but I can’t. Because I’m also considering a Thanksgiving weekend trip (if I can identify a place that’s inexpensive at that time!), a possible weekend in New York City (if I can get cheap airfare), and 2-3 weekend road trips as well. I don’t know if I can squeeze it all in, but I’d sure like to.

So in 2012, you’ll have those trips dominating the pages of this blog–along with my backlog of material I still haven’t written about my trips to San Diego and Orlando. I’m also reviewing my old journals for stories of people I’ve met from my travels. I have some I’d love to share, as soon as I can figure out how to write them up so that they’re as meaningful for you as they were to me. As always, I’ll try to insert some posts that address various aspects of solo travel as much as possible. If you have topics you’d be interested in reading more about here at SoloFriendly, please shoot me an email at gray[at]solofriendly[dot]com.

How about you? Do you know where you’re going in 2012 yet? What are your travel plans for the new year? I love living vicariously through others’ travels, so please share your own travel excitement for the year!

2012 Travel Sneak Peek is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

Balboa Park, San Diego

If you’re looking for culture in San Diego, California, chances are good you’ll find yourself at Balboa Park eventually. This 1200-acre park is home to several performing arts organizations, museums, the world-famous San Diego Zoo, and an artists’ community. I only had an afternoon there–just enough time to skim the surface, but not enough to take advantage of most of what it offers. I was sorry not to see the zoo or any of their terrific museums (Air and Space, Natural History, Model Railroad), but I wasn’t there long enough to really get my money’s worth out of the admission fee. So instead, I wandered around, soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying what the park offers for free.

Even so, I have to say, I was impressed with Balboa Park. And more than a little envious. I wish we had something like that where I live. Even as just a spot to hang out on a weekend afternoon, it was really appealing. There were so many things to do, and not all of them cost money. There are gardens and fountains and restaurants. Having spent so little time there, I can’t say much about it that you wouldn’t find more information about on the Balboa Park website, but I thought I’d share some of my photos from my day there.

Below, the Ruben H. Fleet Science Center serves as the backdrop for one of the park’s fountains, a popular gathering place on a hot day.

Reuben H. Fleet Science Center and fountain

Close by the Fleet Center, you will spot a cement bench with a plaque memorializing slain San Francisco City Supervisor Harvey Milk–the first openly gay politician to be elected to public office in California.

Memorial plaque for Harvey Milk in Balboa Park

During my brief time at Balboa Park, I saw three separate wedding parties taking photos around the grounds. And who can blame them? It’s one of the most picturesque places I’ve ever seen, with so many terrific backdrops. One of the most beautiful–and most photographed–spots in the park is the botanical building and the lily pond complex known as “Laguna de las Flores”.

Botanical building and lily pond

Some of the architecture in the park is simply stunning–such as the Casa del Prado, a performing arts building that is a reconstruction of a building that was part of the 1915 Pan American Exposition–an event that shaped what Balboa Park was to become and what we see today.

Casa del Prado

More lovely buildings on the other side of the lily pond.

View across the Lily Pond

The tall white tower you see below is jutting up from the Museum of Man.

Looking down El Prado to the Museum of Man

My favorite area of the park, though, was the Spanish Village Art Center.

Paintings on display at the Spanish Village Art Center

Here, you can watch daily demonstrations by some of the 37 artists who have studios here. If you feel like buying a very original souvenir of your trip to San Diego, you can certainly do so here. You can also take part in classes.

Spanish Village Art Center

But you can also just take advantage of the relatively peaceful plaza at the Spanish Village. Rest for awhile and people-watch. Feast your eyes on all the bright colors around you–the buildings, the art, the colorful flowers, the painted flagstones of the plaza. Listen to live music. Take advantage of the free wifi. Ahem.

Guitarist at the Spanish Village

Have you spent time at Balboa Park? What was your favorite place in the park?

San Diego Vacations

Balboa Park in Photos is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

View of Seaport Village from my hotel room

Depending on the type of traveler you are, your stay in San Diego may or may not include Seaport Village. If you are the type of traveler who runs from tourist traps where you’re likely to spend money, Seaport Village is probably not the place for you. It was definitely the place for me, though. I found myself going back there over and over again during my 48 hours in San Diego–and not just because it was conveniently located outside the back door of the Manchester Grand Hyatt. Here are 6 reasons why you might consider visiting Seaport Village yourself:

Harbor view

The View

Located on San Diego’s waterfront, Seaport Village has a terrific view from almost any angle. Over lunch, I got to watch sailboats bobbing in the marina. During my strolls back and forth along the boardwalk, I got to watch the sun glinting off the water, seagulls swooping overhead, and kayakers paddling through the blue waves. Where I live, I’m a very long drive from the nearest ocean, so being in a place where I can gaze out at the ocean is like heaven. There were plenty of spots to stop and sit or lean against the railing and look out on the water. On a warm, sunny day, there was no place better to be–except maybe the beach.

Busters

The Restaurants

Seaport Village has a wide range of eateries, from snackbar windows to fast food (no McDonalds here, but you can get a Ben & Jerry’s ice cream) to more formal sit-down restaurants. Watch the sunset while dining on fresh seafood at the San Diego Pier Cafe or the Harbor House, or make some new friends during Happy Hour at the bar at Busters, which is a fun, casual restaurant with a beachy theme and the most moist crab cakes I’ve ever had.

Seashell wind chimes

The Shopping

I detest shopping, but even I found some stores here that I couldn’t resist checking out–like Hot Licks, which sells every hot sauce, salsa, and seasoning you can possibly imagine burning your tongue on, the Cerveza Store (“everything but the beer for the beer lover”), Seaport Village Shell Company (all merchandise is made from seashells), and Del Sol, where the clothing changes color when the sun hits it. The thing I loved about the stores here was that they were so unique compared to the stores I usually see in tourist destinations.

Walking along the waterfront

The People-Watching

When I got tired of walking around, I would snag a bench seat somewhere (there are a lot of them) and just enjoy the sunshine, stare at a splashing fountain, or people-watch. Or I would follow the sounds of guitar music to a pretty plaza where musicians were playing. Or I’d lean against the railing with the ocean to my back and watch people coming and going on the boardwalk. You see such a cross-section of people here–suit-wearing convention-goers, sweaty joggers, moms with their strollers, guys with their dogs, backpackers, picture-taking tourists, packs of teenagers, groups of girlfriends–and yes, even solos.

Henna Tattoos

The Activities

From Seaport Village, you can sign up and go on a SEAL (Sea and Land) Tour. You can have your fortune told by a psychic. You can get a henna tattoo, or have your caricature drawn or your face painted. You can pose with colorful birds on your shoulders. Don’t forget to check out the hand-carved carousel from 1895; it’s beautiful.

Totally fake lighthouse

The Cuteness Factor

Beware, all you anti-tourist trap types. You’ll HATE how cute Seaport Village is, with its fake lighthouse tower, beautiful harbor view boardwalk, pretty Spanish plazas, cobblestone walkways, and early 1900s seaside village themeing. Just hate it. The rest of you? Take lots of pictures, make sure you’re in some of them, and enjoy.

View more of my Seaport Village photos here.

San Diego Vacations

6 Reasons to Visit Seaport Village is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

The USS Midway and San Diego waterfront

As of the end of 2011, all remaining US troops in Iraq will have been brought home. (If only the same were true of our troops in Afghanistan.) Remember the old slogan for Navy recruiters that went “Join the Navy, see the world?” Yeah, well, the men and women of our military branches get to see the world, all right, but not really in the way most of us travelers would want to.

We go lay on beaches, take photos of ourselves in front of famous monuments, get our thrills from things like ziplining or bungee jumping, and stroll through museums learning about history from photos and objects and art. They go into war-torn countries in full combat gear, get shot at by snipers and dodge land mines, and create history—all while being kept away from their families for long stretches of time. While I sometimes have mixed feelings about the US government’s involvement in conflicts, I never have mixed feelings about the men and women who serve: I admire them, and I am grateful to them. So when I was in San Diego, one of my priorities was to visit the USS Midway, a former aircraft carrier-turned-museum at the Navy Pier on the waterfront.

One of 25 restored aircraft aboard the Midway

This ship, the third to be called Midway (in honor of the Battle of Midway Island, a turning point for the US and its allies in World War II), was in service from 1945 through 1992, when it was decommissioned. Once upon a time, Midway was home to more than 200,000 men, the average age of whom was 19. (What were you doing when you were 19?) The Midway served in the Vietnam War and the first Gulf War, but also led humanitarian missions and sailed in every ocean on Earth before arriving in San Diego. The ship was opened as a museum in 2004.

You might think it a little sad that a ship with that kind of history is now a museum with a gift shop and a cafe and flight simulator photo opps. Cringe. But it’s a far better fate than selling it for scrap metal. History comes to life in the corridors of this ship in a way it wouldn’t had objects been removed from their natural setting and displayed in a regular museum.

A "Ready Room" where pilots received instructions before missions

In addition to 60 exhibits, the Midway Museum has 25 restored aircraft aboard. Climb the stairs to the  deck and imagine what it must be like trying to land a fighter jet on a moving ship with such a limited “runway”. Via the audio guide, you hear stories of individual sailors who used to serve on the ship. As you tour the ship, you see where they slept, worked, got their instructions before heading off on a mission.

I think we all know serving in the Navy is no pleasure cruise, but it’s still startling to see how little personal space enlisted crew aboard this ship had. You think working in a cubicle is bad? Try living in this space, day in and day out for months on end:

The enlisted crew quarters aboard the Midway

As much as a collection of artifacts, the USS Midway Museum–and the area around it–serves as a tribute to the men and women who serve in the military.

Next to the Midway is Tuna Harbor Park, a small park dominated by a 25-foot tall statue of a sailor kissing a nurse, called “Unconditional Surrender”. The statue is modeled after a famous photo taken at the end of WWII. It’s one of those things you really can’t stop staring at. On the one hand, it evokes instant nostalgia for the ’40s, and on the other hand, it conjures up cheesy images of Attack of the 50 Foot Woman. That’s America for you. We always have to be a little over the top, even when our heart’s in the right place.

"Unconditional Surrender"

A more tasteful tribute in this park is the National Salute to Bob Hope and the Military, which features a bronze statue of Bob Hope doing standup in front of a microphone to an adoring crowd of military men and women. You can actually walk amongst these statues as if you’re part of the crowd at one of Bob’s shows. Bob Hope’s dedication to the USO and to boosting the morale of the troops is legendary. I’m sure the number of hours he spent entertaining the troops over the years is staggering. So it’s appropriate that he is honored alongside them here.

Salute to Bob Hope and the Military

When in San Diego, I recommend spending some time on the USS Midway and in the area immediately surrounding it. If it doesn’t teach you something, it at least serves as a good reminder of the sacrifices of our military men and women. And it never hurts to be reminded of that.

USS San Diego Memorial

 What you need to know about visiting the USS Midway:

Location: 910 North Harbor Drive, San Diego

Getting there: You can drive and park in the lot at the Midway (for a fee). If you are staying downtown, you can walk there, take a cab, or take a pedicab for about $5. You can also catch a train or trolley to the Santa Fe Depot and walk the few blocks from there.

Hours of operation: 10am to 5pm daily (except Thanksgiving and Christmas days)

Admission fee: $18 per adult (includes audio guide in English, Spanish, or Japanese)

Facilities: 60 exhibits, 25 restored aircraft, a cafe, a gift shop, flight simulators, photo opportunities. Docent-led tours throughout the day.

San Diego Vacations

Touring The USS Midway is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

Manchester Christmas markets

Living in Manchester, something has to make up for the dark nights and dreary rain that blights us come December. Luckily for me, my city has earned a well-deserved reputation for having some of the world’s best Christmas markets, which have won several tourism awards.

Their existence means the cold weather is worthwhile – because without the need to warm up, steaming mugs of Glühwein (German mulled wine) would be completely unnecessary. And this is my favourite part of a visit to the Manchester Christmas Markets. That and the fact that for a mere £2 of deposit forfeited, I can keep my mug as a souvenir (their design changes each year).

There are several markets scattered throughout the centre (for example, the French Market on King Street, the Arts & Crafts Market on Exchange Street, and the World Market on Brazennose Street) but the main one is the Manchester European Christmas Market on Albert Square, where the huge, lighted Santa looks down on the crowds below from his prime position on the Town Hall.

I find myself here often, weaving from stall to stall for hours, tasting delicious samples offered by owners hoping for a sale (usually successful).

Cheeses

Eat, drink and be merry

It has to be said, the temptations are certainly very, um, tempting. I’ve been on a vegan diet for two months, yet last week I couldn’t help but nibble on and buy some Dutch wasabi-flavoured cheese from a stall selling immense wheels of Goudas and Edams. The pesto flavour wasn’t half bad, either.

Then it was on to the van cooking up traditional Lancashire foods, where there was a big pan of cheesy Lancashire potatoes crying out to be eaten, their aroma reaching parts of my nostrils I never knew existed. Here also, £2 buys a tray of good old-fashioned, local bonfire food – mushy black peas, generously covered in salt and vinegar.

It would be very silly, of course, to not save room for something sweet, because the scent of pancakes, waffles and crepes will creep over and hound you into submission. Smothered in cream, strawberries, chocolate, nut spread, bananas or jam – the glory of these concoctions cannot be overstated.

It’s easy to be a solo traveller here. There are a few bars in which you can sit yourself down with a German beer in hand and feel comfortable soaking up the atmosphere. Chatting to people shouldn’t be too difficult either, with everyone feeling giddy and cheerful, in a festive frame of mind. And though I say so myself, northerners are renowned for being more friendly and approachable than their southern counterparts, so if you’re visiting, give it a go and strike up a conversation with a Mancunian.

Chocolate stall

Shopping at the markets

Being in the middle of a rugby scrum is not my bag, so I avoid visiting on the weekend. I love Monday evening at the Albert Square market, but can barely breathe if I get sucked in on a Saturday. I’m not the best of people in a crowd, and feeling like a sardine is not my idea of fun.

Dare I say it though? Many of the crafts and handiworks, as lovely as they are, seem fairly over-priced. The markets are not the place to come bargain-hunting, but some wonderful and unusual knick-knacks can be found if you want unique gifts. One stall I especially love sells beautiful, handmade blown glass ornaments and tree decorations, and while I haven’t bought any (let’s call it a cash flow situation), I have spent ages looking at them, and at the market lights twinkling off them.

The toys on sale around the markets are also pretty cool. I’m always looking for something other than plastic rubbish to buy for my nephews at Christmas, and I found some really funky puppets at the markets. I also spotted one stall with some very cute baby vests emblazoned with “The Beatles,” the famous fab four.

It’s easy to leave the markets with my purse a lot lighter than when I arrived, but each year I find it as much fun as the last.

Decoration stall

Tips for visiting the Manchester Christmas Markets

• Wrap up warm! You’re in the north of England in winter, enough said? But do layer up, because the market pubs can get quite cosy on a packed night, and you might want to strip down a little while drinking under cover.

• Alcoholic drinks stop being sold 45 minutes before the market closes, which is 9pm for the Albert Square market. Keep it in mind if you want to enjoy a tipple at the end of your visit, or if you arrive at the market late and think you have plenty of time for a drink.

• If you want to shop and meander, come early in the week rather than at the weekend, which is hellish for the claustrophobic. If you’re here purely to drink and don’t mind waiting a while at the bar, then weekends have the most atmosphere. The periphery markets are usually less busy than the Albert Square one.

• If time is short or you’re looking for the best overall experience, visit the Albert Square market.

• If you’re planning to see a few markets, check opening times as some close earlier than others. Manchester City Council have produced a handy map of all the Christmas markets, which can be downloaded via their website.

The Manchester Christmas Markets will run this year until 21st December.

Have you ever visited the Christmas Markets in Europe? What was your experience like?

Andrea is a freelance journalist and travel writer based in the UK. As well as writing for the British national press, her site Butterflyist.com aims to inspire people to have the confidence to push their comfort zones, whether through travel or other means. While loving adventure, Andrea is a self-proclaimed hater of camping – though will suffer it if absolutely necessary. You can find her on Twitter @thebutterflyist.

Photo credit: All photos in this post belong to Andrea.

Going Solo to the Manchester Christmas Markets is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

Sloppy Joey's in the Gaslamp Quarter

If there’s one thing I really love when I travel, it’s being pleasantly surprised. (Better than the other way around, don’t you think?) I had a morning like that in San Diego. I knew I wanted to spend the morning touring around the Gaslamp Quarter, and I wanted to try breakfast somewhere outside my hotel. (Not that I didn’t love my breakfast in the hotel the previous day, but I wanted to sample as many different restaurants as I could in 48 hours).

The problem was that I had no idea where I wanted to go, and time was of the essence. I had wanted to get some work done in my room before I had to check out, which meant I’d put off breakfast too long. I was ravenous when I stepped outside the hotel, which, to anyone who knows me, means we were at DEFCON 1:  If I didn’t get some food in me immediately, there would be a COMPLETE NUCLEAR DISASTER. So naturally, I turned to a source of local knowledge: The valet. I asked him where I could get  a good breakfast close to the hotel. His reply? Richard’s Pancake House on Front Street.

As soon as he named it, I recalled having read about Richard’s Pancake House during my research for my trip. Some guidebook or other had recommended it as well. Satisfied that this was the right choice, I followed his directions, and it was an easy walk from the Manchester Grand Hyatt up Market Street. I recognized the restaurant as soon as I saw it. . .because of the long line of people waiting to get inside. It stretched all the way down the block. Ugh. I hate standing in long lines. I also knew there was no way I could wait that long before eating. I’d pass out from hunger first. So I kept walking, hoping I’d run across another diner soon. Very soon.

I made it as far as 5th Avenue, where I found a pizza and pasta restaurant named Sloppy Joey’s that had a breakfast menu and a hostess outside who greeted me like a long-lost friend. She seemed really eager to show me inside. Let me take this moment to say that when restaurants post people outside to pull you in the door, it’s usually not a good sign. It means the food is terrible and you should eat anywhere but there. But sometimes it means that there are so many restaurants competing for limited business in a small radius that they need an edge (ala Ocean Drive in South Beach). And sometimes, on the very rare occasion, it just means the staff is friendly. That was the case here.

Sloppy Joey’s appeared to me to be more of a nighttime restaurant that just happened to also serve breakfast. The waitresses and hostess all wore black and looked like they were headed to a Goth concert. I immediately thought: “Well, this won’t be a boring breakfast, will it?” Not if the decor was a sign. As it turned out, the waitresses merely matched the restaurant, which was decorated in lots of black, white and red. And there were prints of mobsters on the walls, including one near me of Al Pacino as Scarface. Hmm…Italian food, mobsters, okay. I get it. Kind of a stereotype, but fun nonetheless.

While this table was empty, I had a decent view of the street below.

I was shown to a two-top table upstairs close enough to the large front window that I could people-watch a bit by looking down on the sidewalk below. (People-watching in the Gaslamp Quarter on a Sunday morning is a treat.) You can see in the photo above that the chairs were leather and very comfortable. There was another solo diner nearby, eating and reading a newspaper, so I didn’t feel self-conscious dining alone (not that I would have noticed anyway, since I was too hungry to care).

Service was very good. The staff was friendly and welcoming to everyone who came in, not just me. The first thing my waitress told me was that it was Happy Hour (at 11 am!) and they were offering half price Mimosas, Bloody Marys and appetizers. How much was “half price”? Two dollars. No kidding. Now, I’m not a fan of champagne, but I was on vacation, and it was only two dollars, so I thought “What the hell? Why not?” I ordered a Mimosa.

Believe it or not, this was my first Mimosa–or at least, the first that I can remember. And no, that doesn’t mean I’m usually too blotto to remember what I drink. It means I found it to be a very forgettable drink. So it’s possible I’ve had one before and just forgot. Like I said, I’m not a fan of champagne. It wasn’t bad, but I can’t say it’ll become my drink of choice. Plus alcohol at breakfast just isn’t my style. It did make me feel like I was on vacation though.

Breakfast with Mimosa

For breakfast, I ordered the Strawberry Shortcake Belgian Waffle. I am such a sucker for anything resembling strawberry shortcake that if you told me you’d invented strawberry shortcake-flavored liver and onions, I’d try it. And yes, it was scrumptious. Overall, a wonderful breakfast, all for $12.87 before tip, which I felt was very reasonable for a touristy place like the Gaslamp Quarter.

Sometimes it’s disappointing when the popular restaurant that all the cool kids go to is packed and you can’t get in. But sometimes, it’s a gift because it allows you the serendipity of discovering other delightful little eateries. If you’re in the Gaslamp Quarter on a weekend and you’re looking for something with a bit of character, give Sloppy Joey’s a try. They serve a rocking breakfast. And not sloppy at all.

Where: 548 Fifth Avenue (south of Market Street in the Gaslamp Quarter).

Hours: Sun-Thurs, 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat, 11am-midnight.

San Diego Vacations

Sloppy Joey’s: Not Sloppy At All is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

Hogwarts Castle at Universal's Wizarding World of Harry Potter

If you’re a fan of the Harry Potter books and films, raise your hand. Me too! (I’m raising my hand right now.) I’ve read all the books, seen all the movies (some more than once) and when I heard that Universal Orlando was creating a theme park for the Harry Potter series, I thought it was the most brilliant idea I’ve heard in a long time. (Except for maybe that Star Trek theme park they’re building in Jordan.) Naturally, I knew I had to visit it. I finally had my chance during my trip to Orlando at the beginning of November.

I'll take the self-stirring cauldron, please

My timing, as is so often the case, could have been better: After my plane tickets and hotels were booked, I learned that the weekend I’d chosen to spend at Universal was the same weekend as a Harry Potter Convention. This meant I would be jockeying for space in ride lines with hundreds of Harry Potter fans. And we all know how much I love crowds. (That’s me being sarcastic. The thicker the crowd, the more claustrophobic I feel.)

I stayed on-site at the Hard Rock Hotel (a very nice hotel but ridiculously overpriced), which offered two perks: Your room key serves as an Express Pass (meaning you can skip the long lines at most rides, though not the Forbidden Journey in the Wizarding World of Harry Potter) and you can get into the parks an hour earlier than the general public. It was that extra hour I was hoping would serve me well–and it did.

Have you ever seen eyes that color before???

Friday morning, I was up before it was even light out (on my vacation no less–ugh!) to shower, have a quick bite to eat and head over to Islands of Adventure, one of two Universal Orlando parks (the other being Universal Studios).  I followed other park-goers to the Wizarding World of Harry Potter, located near Jurassic Park and the Lost Continent. It’s a weird feeling walking from the tropical jungle of Jurassic Park into Hogsmeade, with its peaked roofs capped with snow and hanging with icicles. Even at eight a.m., Hogsmeade was bustling (but not nearly as mobbed as it was later in the day). First things first: I headed straight to the castle of Hogwarts (School of Witchraft and Wizardry) to ride the Forbidden Journey.

Snow-capped roofs of Hogsmeade

The Forbidden Journey is a great motion simulator ride (combined with 3D elements) with a detailed story featuring a dragon, a brief flight across the Quidditch field, dementors, spiders, the Whomping Willow, and our three favorite young wizards, Harry, Ron and Hermione. But the queue line is just as entertaining as the ride itself. It features the talking sorting hat, the “living portraits”, and videos of Headmaster Dumbledore and Harry, Ron, and Hermione setting up the scenario for the ride. (Sorry, I have no photos, because it was just too dark to even bother.) The Forbidden Journey has a single rider line if you want to skip the long wait, but I don’t recommend using it. Here’s why:

You can’t get into the single rider line until you’ve already been standing in line outside the castle for God knows how long. Once you do get into the single rider line, you miss all the great details inside the castle. But that’s the part you don’t want to miss! If the single rider line allowed you to skip the long line outside the castle, too, then I’d say it was worth it; but since you only skip the most interesting part of the queue, it’s really not. Your mileage may very, but that’s how I felt.

Potions shop

After this, I rode Flight of the Hippogriff, which feels like the quickest roller coaster ride in the world. The cars feature a Hippogriff head (like Buckbeak from Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban) in the front. One ride on this was more than enough for me. The cars are a very tight squeeze, and they do put two people per car even when you’re a “one”, so I had to ride with some guy I didn’t know. Normally, I don’t mind riding theme park rides with strangers, but this car was so small, I was literally pressed right up against him (and neither of us were large people). It was not a comfortable ride. Keep that in mind if you’re going solo to this park.

Flight of the Hippogriff

There is a third ride in this area called Dragon Challenge, which is two inverted, intertwined roller coasters (the Chinese Fireball and the Hungarian Horntail, named after two species of dragons in the Harry Potter books). I don’t like going upside down, so I skipped this ride. In hindsight, I should have gone through the queue anyway and then ducked out at the last minute so I could see the Triwizard Tournament themeing. Oh well, there’s always next time.

Dragon Challenge

I returned to the Wizarding World two more times over the next two days, but I still missed a lot of details. There were just so many people around me all the time. There was an upside to the convention, though: many people had purchased Harry Potter garb that they were wearing in the park; it almost felt like being an extra on set of the films. It seemed the most natural thing in the world to pass two young women wearing robes and Gryffindor scarves who looked like students of Hogwarts on a weekend trip into Hogsmeade.

Argh! The crowds!

Ultimately, though, I think I would have enjoyed wandering the streets of Hogsmeade if it had been less crowded. The attention to detail is really outstanding, and I would have appreciated the opportunity to really soak it all in. The town features an owlery, the train engine of the Hogwarts Express, a fast food restaurant in the guise of The Three Broomsticks, and shops familiar to any reader of the books or viewer of the films, such as Zonko’s Joke Shop, Honeydukes Sweet Shop, Gladrags Wizard Wear, and of course, Ollivanders Wand Shop. The line for Ollivanders was ridiculously long every time I passed by, so I didn’t even bother trying to get in to see the show. The Three Broomsticks was also packed the whole time I was there, so there was no chance to grab a bite to eat, though I did pop my head in briefly to look around.

Ollivanders Wand Shop

One of the longest lines in the park was the line to purchase butterbeer. But of course everyone just has to try it, including me. It’s hard to describe what it tastes like. Some have likened it to cream soda, but that’s not the flavor, exactly. More like a cross between cream soda and butterscotch. The foam on top wasn’t a natural foam; it tasted suspiciously like whipped cream to me. It wasn’t bad, but not something I’d drink on a regular basis.

Huh. Doesn't taste like butter or beer.

While I thoroughly enjoyed this park solo, I think it also might be fun to go with a group of friends who are also fans of the books and movies. There’s something about sharing an experience like this with like-minded people that appeals. The upshot is, if you’re a Harry Potter fan and you have the wherewithal to make the trip to Orlando, do go to Universal and immerse yourself in the Wizarding World of Harry Potter. I only wish there were quality theme parks like this for all our favorite books and movies.

You can see all my Wizarding World of Harry Potter photos at my SmugMug galleries.

Orlando Vacations

Going Solo at the Wizarding World of Harry Potter is a post from: SoloFriendly.com