El Morro

A couple of weeks ago, one of my Twitter acquaintances (@retroguy777) asked me: “As a solo traveller, where should I go next?” This of course begged two follow-up questions from me, which were:

“Where have you been before?” and “What are your interests?”

He replied that his interests were “history, urban setting, architecture” and that he had been to Chicago and Philadelphia and loved them. He added that Boston and DC were on his list, so no need to mention those.  I thought for a moment. Any city in Europe would be terribly obvious. So instead, I suggested San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Fort San Cristobal

When many people think of San Juan, they think of the beaches, or the fact that it’s a popular cruise port, or the tasty pina coladas and mojitos that seem to be everywhere (there is a Bacardi rum factory on Catano, a short ferry ride away). But for history lovers, Old San Juan is a treasure trove. It’s the oldest city in the U.S., founded in 1521. It has two well-preserved forts to explore, Fort San Felipe del Morro (aka “El Morro”) and Fort San Cristobal; a one-time fort that is now used as the Governor’s Mansion, La Fortaleza (built in 1540); two very old churches that are still standing today, Cathedral de San Juan (originally built in 1521, destroyed in a hurricane, and rebuilt) and Iglesia San Jose (built in 1523); El Convento, the luxury hotel that was built as a convent in the 1600s (the Monastery of Our Lady Carmen of San Jose); La Princesa, a former penitentiary built in the 1800s; and many more fascinating historical sites.

Cathedral de San Juan

From the narrow, cobblestone streets and Spanish Plazas to the vibrant pastel colors of the buildings, there is plenty of eye candy here for the architecture lover as well. Much of the architecture of Old San Juan reflects the military history of the island, of course, but it also retains the Spanish Colonial influence even today–arched doors and windows, stucco walls, carved doors, second floor balconies overlooking the streets, and interior courtyards. San Juan is also a modern city, though not packed with skyscrapers the way that New York City or Chicago are. Outside of Old San Juan and the beach resort areas, visitors may find themselves drawn to Rio Piedras, home to the University of Puerto Rico and the botanical gardens.

San Juan's architecture is distinctive

San Juan is a great transition destination for solo travelers who have so far focused on the North American continent and are thinking about traveling further afield. It’s still part of the U.S.–it uses U.S. currency and English is spoken widely here–but it retains just enough Spanish and Caribbean island influence to make you feel like you’re not in the U.S. any more.  Spanish is also widely spoken here, so if you’re hoping to practice your Spanish, just go beyond the tourist zones.

A Street in Old San Juan

I can attest to the fact that San Juan is a solo-friendly destination, having traveled there myself last year during my escape from the New England winter chill. So if you, like @retroguy777, are a history and architecture lover looking or a solo-friendly travel destination, you might think about San Juan. Especially if you’re an architecture and history lover who can also appreciate a lazy day on a sunny beach. In that case, dig your toes into the sand and have a mojito for me.

San Juan, Puerto Rico: More Than Beaches and Bacardi is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

When I traveled to San Juan last winter, I did what most tourists do–visited the forts of El Morro and San Cristobal.  These were the outposts of protection for the island of San Juan against attacks by sea and by land, respectively.  I enjoy touring historic sites whether I’m traveling with others or not, but one thing I noticed on this trip was how my imagination came out to play because I had no one to talk to (or rather, no one to have to listen to).  I wandered the old stone walls to the top of El Morro and almost felt I could hear soldiers’ voices on the wind.  I imagined what it must have been like being a soldier there, all those centuries ago.  A beautiful island, to be sure, but far, far from home, from Spain. What was it like to be on the verge of attack, wondering if the forts would hold the enemy at bay?

The loneliest job of all had to go to the sentries who manned the garitas of the forts. These little, round sentry boxes jutting out from various points along the walls of the forts captured my fancy. They are the official symbol of San Juan, and it’s easy to see why.  There is something a bit romantic about them. They’re photogenic, of course, standing out high above and in stark contrast to the brilliant blue of the ocean.

The paths to get into the garitas are narrow and high, not advisable for anyone with vertigo.  The garitas are small and would only fit one person at a time–and a small person, at that. I’m only 5’5″, and I felt claustrophobic when I went into them. Unless you shouted back to other soldiers along the wall, you would have no one to talk to during the long, lonely hours of your shift.  (And people think solo travelers have a solitary life!)

As I stood there, peering out through the narrow gaps, I wondered if I could handle standing in there for several hours, with nothing to do but look out to sea, watching for ships on the horizon that may or may not ever come.  Such was the life of the sentry.  There’s something noble about being the one to keep watch. In many ways, it’s a thankless job, one which offers little excitement, and no glory, yet it’s a pivotal position that requires tremendous concentration and a keen eye.  To fall asleep on the job could spell disaster.  I wonder what thoughts kept them company during those long hours in the garita.

The most famous of the garitas is at San Cristobal, and it is known as “Garita del Diablo”. This garita is located on a sharp point of the fort, close to the water. Legend has it, soldiers who manned that particular garita would go mysteriously missing, taken by “the Devil”–which seems more appealing to the imagination than what is more likely to have happened:  They took advantage of the isolated spot close to the water and went AWOL. No doubt the stories about being snatched by the Devil were invented to prevent other soldiers from getting the same idea!

A symbol of history, of vigilance, the garitas continue to watch over the city of San Juan and its centuries of change, despite the lack of potential invaders to keep watch for–unless you count the tourists.

The Garitas of Old San Juan is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

Patio del Nispero

A few weeks ago, I described El Convento in Old San Juan as a perfect choice hotel for the solo traveler on a large budget.   But let’s face it, not every solo traveler going to San Juan will be able to afford this lovely, historic hotel.  One way to add it to your itinerary and get a peek inside this former-convent-turned-luxury-hotel is by having a meal in one of their restaurants.  If you can only have one meal here, I recommend breakfast at Patio Del Nispero, named for the nispero tree that shades the courtyard.  It’s a tranquil spot for a leisurely breakfast.

Courtyard

The courtyard is a calm oasis with both sun and shade. I had a late breakfast, and the restaurant wasn’t busy.  I sat at my table, shaded by palm fronds  swaying slightly in the light breeze, listening to soothing classical music, enjoying a leisurely meal and coffee, and watching little birds hopping around looking for crumbs.  It was so relaxing, I could have sat there all day.

Caribbean Eggs Benedict

My waiter was a tall, stately gentleman with grey hair and mustache and impeccable service. As happened at Cafe Berlin, he didn’t seem to know what to do with me every time I set down my fork to pick up my pen and write in my journal. He would get a pained expression on his face, as if he thought something was wrong. I would smile broadly whenever I saw him to reassure him I was happy.

For breakfast, I chose the Caribbean Eggs Benedict–which was so much better than regular eggs benedict!  In this dish, they swapped out the English muffin for mashed plantains.  The plantains gave it a slightly sweet taste to go with the saltiness of the bacon. It came with a side of refreshing fruit.  It was absolutely delightful. The coffee here was very good, too.  (Total cost: $13.65 before tip)

Sitting Area off the Courtyard

Once you’re done satisfying your stomach, take some time to wander around the hotel, starting with the courtyard and its grand old nispero tree.  Check out the old photos of the history of the hotel that line the hallway on the periphery.  If there is no group inside, see if you can peek into the small function room that was painted by local artist Antonio Martorelli.  It is a really unique space.

artwork by Antonio Martorelli

Wander through the lobby to get a sense of the history and luxury of the place.  Then head out into Old San Juan to visit San Juan Cathedral across the street and do some sightseeing in the rest of the old city.  The Paseo de la Princesa walk is just down the hill from El Convento, and the Forts are up the hill.

Solo Dining Review: Patio Del Nispero, San Juan is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

On the Bacardi grounds

San Juan, Puerto Rico. Famed for its sun, is beaches, its old city of Spanish colonial architecture and cobblestone streets. . .and rum.  Rum being the most important.  Because of its impact on the economy, of course.  Certainly not because it tastes mighty fine mixed with Coke or anything. (That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.)

Being a fan of the favorite drink of pirates everywhere, I naturally wanted to take the tour of the Bacardi Rum Factory when I was in San Juan, Puerto Rico.  I’d read ahead of time that the tour doesn’t go into the actual factory where the rum is being made, but they give you free admission and two free rum drinks, so what’s not to love?

Catano street facing ferry pier

As I’ve mentioned before, the ferry to Catano (where the factory tour takes place) leaves from Pier 2 in Old San Juan, which is almost directly across the street from Senor Frogs.  It costs $.50 each way.  Once you arrive, you walk out to the street, and someone will direct you toward a shuttle taxi to the Factory/Museum.  This costs $3/person and is about a five minute drive.

What’s great about this taxi is that it’s a van, so as a solo traveler, you’re not footing the whole tab for the taxi ride yourself.  And if you’re as lucky as I was, you might make some new friends on the shuttle.  I met a nice couple from India, Naresh and Tejas, and we hit it off so well, we wound up spending the next several hours together, including lunch back in Old San Juan.

Bacardi hospitality area

At the Bacardi property, you will pick up your drink tickets and have a choice: You can take the tour first, or visit the gift shop, or sit in the hospitality area and have your free rum drinks.  Honestly, I’m not sure how much you’d get out of the tour if you had your drinks first, so I recommend saving that for last. The downside of this tour is that you can only take photos outside and in the lobby.  Once the tour begins in earnest, no photography is allowed.

Entrance to the Bacardi tour--Doesn't it sort of look like Batman's bat signal?

The first thing we learned was the reason why Bacardi has a bat on its label: it’s a fruit bat, a symbol of good luck.  We were shown a brief film of the history of Bacardi (which was founded in Cuba, but moved for political reasons and set up manufacturing in Puerto Rico to avoid import taxes on rum shipped to the US). We viewed a museum-like recreation of a rum factory with stacks of oak casks and the executive office with historical artifacts (letters, pictures, bottles, antique office furniture).  We stopped at a media center with listening booths to learn about various aspects of the rum-making process and more of the history of this company.

Painting in the lobby

Even though it wasn’t an actual factory tour where you could see them making the rum, I still found it pretty interesting and learned a lot.  For instance, did you know that rum doesn’t need to be aged as long in Puerto Rico because of the climate?  I didn’t.  Or that during Prohibition in the US, Americans would fly to Cuba so they could drink rum.  (That is what I call a serious drinking problem! “Oh my God, I need a drink. Let’s fly to Cuba.”)

Finally, we went into a salon area where a bartender named Tomas (who had the most wonderful speaking voice) demonstrated how to make various drinks.  According to Tomas, to make a mojito correctly, you must use spearmint leaves. Good to know.  He described the history of Bacardi and Coke, which, once you add a twist of lime, is known as a “Cuba libra” or “free Cuba” and was trademarked.

Once the tour was over, Naresh, Tejas, and I headed back to the hospitality tent where we enjoyed our free drinks, a warm, sunny day in Puerto Rico, and some good conversation before heading back to Old San Juan for a late lunch.  This day remains one of my fondest memories of my trip to San Juan–mostly because of the friendships I developed that day.  But even discounting that, I have to recommend this tour.  It’s very rare that you find a tour anywhere that is not only free, but comes with 2 free drinks attached.  Add to that the ferry ride, which provides a scenic view of Old San Juan, and you definitely have a trip worth taking.

Bacardi Factory

Bacardi Rum Factory Tour is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

One of my goals for my trip to San Juan was to try mofongo, a local dish made of mashed plantains.  I was finally able to do this one night when I had dinner at Raices, a restaurant on Recinto Sur Street which was recommended to me by both locals and a tourist and seems popular with both.

Raices is located on a busy street not far from the cruise ship docks with lots of foot traffic and plenty of restaurants with outdoor seating.  When I approached the hostess, she asked me if I would like to dine at the bar, and I was delighted they had one, so I said yes.  She led me deep into the restaurant, transporting me back to an earlier era in Puerto Rican history: The staff wear traditional Puerto Rican costumes–head wraps and ruffled skirts for the women, and stylish Panama hats, with loose-fitting, short sleeve shirts and slacks for the men. (I’m sure that part is for the tourists.)

The bar is not in the main dining room, but its own small room.  I assumed there would be others dining at the bar (or at least drinking), but I wound up being the only customer for about twenty minutes, until a couple came in and sat at the far end.  The bar area, like the rest of the restaurant, is decorated in brightly-colored images of Puerto Rican culture.   There is very loud salsa music playing in the background.   The bar stools were made of wicker, and the barback was lined with liquor bottles.  Sadly, they use a machine to make their pina coladas.  I was sitting right next to it.  Sigh.  In any case, I did quite enjoy my mojito–it was very minty with a strong rum and lime taste.  Almost as good as the one at Cafe Berlin.  I ordered water with my meal as well, and it came served in a large tin mug.  Touches like the wicker barstools and the tin mugs really added to the charm of this place.

I knew I would order mofongo here, it was just a matter of which kind.  I decided to go with the mofongo with creole style shrimp and a small side salad. The salad was small, which was fine with me, and despite its simplicity, it hit the spot. But really, it was just a warm-up act for the main show.

The mofongo was served in a wooden vessel that was more like a mug than a bowl, but bigger and without handles.  There was a generous amount of creole shrimp on top of the mofongo and mixed in with it, and it was adorned with a plantain chip.

Having never tried mofongo before, I am at a loss to describe it.  The consistency is mealy, almost like a baked potato, only denser and chewier.  The flavor was mild and not bad, but a bit bland.  Thank God for the creole shrimp, which provided more flavor to the dish.  In any case, I was glad I was able to try it.  It was a huge portion, though, and I couldn’t finish it all.  (Total cost: $27.77 before tip–driven up by the price of the mojito, no doubt.)

Because Raices is situated in the middle of the action in Old San Juan, not far from where the cruise ships dock, it is a busy restaurant and not cheap.  But for a fun atmosphere and good Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine, it’s a fine place to dine.  For me, as a solo diner, it would have been more fun if the bar area had been busier.  But that’s not the restaurant’s fault, just the luck of the draw.

So This is Mofongo is a post from: SoloFriendly.com