El Morro

A couple of weeks ago, one of my Twitter acquaintances (@retroguy777) asked me: “As a solo traveller, where should I go next?” This of course begged two follow-up questions from me, which were:

“Where have you been before?” and “What are your interests?”

He replied that his interests were “history, urban setting, architecture” and that he had been to Chicago and Philadelphia and loved them. He added that Boston and DC were on his list, so no need to mention those.  I thought for a moment. Any city in Europe would be terribly obvious. So instead, I suggested San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Fort San Cristobal

When many people think of San Juan, they think of the beaches, or the fact that it’s a popular cruise port, or the tasty pina coladas and mojitos that seem to be everywhere (there is a Bacardi rum factory on Catano, a short ferry ride away). But for history lovers, Old San Juan is a treasure trove. It’s the oldest city in the U.S., founded in 1521. It has two well-preserved forts to explore, Fort San Felipe del Morro (aka “El Morro”) and Fort San Cristobal; a one-time fort that is now used as the Governor’s Mansion, La Fortaleza (built in 1540); two very old churches that are still standing today, Cathedral de San Juan (originally built in 1521, destroyed in a hurricane, and rebuilt) and Iglesia San Jose (built in 1523); El Convento, the luxury hotel that was built as a convent in the 1600s (the Monastery of Our Lady Carmen of San Jose); La Princesa, a former penitentiary built in the 1800s; and many more fascinating historical sites.

Cathedral de San Juan

From the narrow, cobblestone streets and Spanish Plazas to the vibrant pastel colors of the buildings, there is plenty of eye candy here for the architecture lover as well. Much of the architecture of Old San Juan reflects the military history of the island, of course, but it also retains the Spanish Colonial influence even today–arched doors and windows, stucco walls, carved doors, second floor balconies overlooking the streets, and interior courtyards. San Juan is also a modern city, though not packed with skyscrapers the way that New York City or Chicago are. Outside of Old San Juan and the beach resort areas, visitors may find themselves drawn to Rio Piedras, home to the University of Puerto Rico and the botanical gardens.

San Juan's architecture is distinctive

San Juan is a great transition destination for solo travelers who have so far focused on the North American continent and are thinking about traveling further afield. It’s still part of the U.S.–it uses U.S. currency and English is spoken widely here–but it retains just enough Spanish and Caribbean island influence to make you feel like you’re not in the U.S. any more.  Spanish is also widely spoken here, so if you’re hoping to practice your Spanish, just go beyond the tourist zones.

A Street in Old San Juan

I can attest to the fact that San Juan is a solo-friendly destination, having traveled there myself last year during my escape from the New England winter chill. So if you, like @retroguy777, are a history and architecture lover looking or a solo-friendly travel destination, you might think about San Juan. Especially if you’re an architecture and history lover who can also appreciate a lazy day on a sunny beach. In that case, dig your toes into the sand and have a mojito for me.

San Juan, Puerto Rico: More Than Beaches and Bacardi is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

When I traveled to San Juan last winter, I did what most tourists do–visited the forts of El Morro and San Cristobal.  These were the outposts of protection for the island of San Juan against attacks by sea and by land, respectively.  I enjoy touring historic sites whether I’m traveling with others or not, but one thing I noticed on this trip was how my imagination came out to play because I had no one to talk to (or rather, no one to have to listen to).  I wandered the old stone walls to the top of El Morro and almost felt I could hear soldiers’ voices on the wind.  I imagined what it must have been like being a soldier there, all those centuries ago.  A beautiful island, to be sure, but far, far from home, from Spain. What was it like to be on the verge of attack, wondering if the forts would hold the enemy at bay?

The loneliest job of all had to go to the sentries who manned the garitas of the forts. These little, round sentry boxes jutting out from various points along the walls of the forts captured my fancy. They are the official symbol of San Juan, and it’s easy to see why.  There is something a bit romantic about them. They’re photogenic, of course, standing out high above and in stark contrast to the brilliant blue of the ocean.

The paths to get into the garitas are narrow and high, not advisable for anyone with vertigo.  The garitas are small and would only fit one person at a time–and a small person, at that. I’m only 5’5″, and I felt claustrophobic when I went into them. Unless you shouted back to other soldiers along the wall, you would have no one to talk to during the long, lonely hours of your shift.  (And people think solo travelers have a solitary life!)

As I stood there, peering out through the narrow gaps, I wondered if I could handle standing in there for several hours, with nothing to do but look out to sea, watching for ships on the horizon that may or may not ever come.  Such was the life of the sentry.  There’s something noble about being the one to keep watch. In many ways, it’s a thankless job, one which offers little excitement, and no glory, yet it’s a pivotal position that requires tremendous concentration and a keen eye.  To fall asleep on the job could spell disaster.  I wonder what thoughts kept them company during those long hours in the garita.

The most famous of the garitas is at San Cristobal, and it is known as “Garita del Diablo”. This garita is located on a sharp point of the fort, close to the water. Legend has it, soldiers who manned that particular garita would go mysteriously missing, taken by “the Devil”–which seems more appealing to the imagination than what is more likely to have happened:  They took advantage of the isolated spot close to the water and went AWOL. No doubt the stories about being snatched by the Devil were invented to prevent other soldiers from getting the same idea!

A symbol of history, of vigilance, the garitas continue to watch over the city of San Juan and its centuries of change, despite the lack of potential invaders to keep watch for–unless you count the tourists.

The Garitas of Old San Juan is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

Patio del Nispero

A few weeks ago, I described El Convento in Old San Juan as a perfect choice hotel for the solo traveler on a large budget.   But let’s face it, not every solo traveler going to San Juan will be able to afford this lovely, historic hotel.  One way to add it to your itinerary and get a peek inside this former-convent-turned-luxury-hotel is by having a meal in one of their restaurants.  If you can only have one meal here, I recommend breakfast at Patio Del Nispero, named for the nispero tree that shades the courtyard.  It’s a tranquil spot for a leisurely breakfast.

Courtyard

The courtyard is a calm oasis with both sun and shade. I had a late breakfast, and the restaurant wasn’t busy.  I sat at my table, shaded by palm fronds  swaying slightly in the light breeze, listening to soothing classical music, enjoying a leisurely meal and coffee, and watching little birds hopping around looking for crumbs.  It was so relaxing, I could have sat there all day.

Caribbean Eggs Benedict

My waiter was a tall, stately gentleman with grey hair and mustache and impeccable service. As happened at Cafe Berlin, he didn’t seem to know what to do with me every time I set down my fork to pick up my pen and write in my journal. He would get a pained expression on his face, as if he thought something was wrong. I would smile broadly whenever I saw him to reassure him I was happy.

For breakfast, I chose the Caribbean Eggs Benedict–which was so much better than regular eggs benedict!  In this dish, they swapped out the English muffin for mashed plantains.  The plantains gave it a slightly sweet taste to go with the saltiness of the bacon. It came with a side of refreshing fruit.  It was absolutely delightful. The coffee here was very good, too.  (Total cost: $13.65 before tip)

Sitting Area off the Courtyard

Once you’re done satisfying your stomach, take some time to wander around the hotel, starting with the courtyard and its grand old nispero tree.  Check out the old photos of the history of the hotel that line the hallway on the periphery.  If there is no group inside, see if you can peek into the small function room that was painted by local artist Antonio Martorelli.  It is a really unique space.

artwork by Antonio Martorelli

Wander through the lobby to get a sense of the history and luxury of the place.  Then head out into Old San Juan to visit San Juan Cathedral across the street and do some sightseeing in the rest of the old city.  The Paseo de la Princesa walk is just down the hill from El Convento, and the Forts are up the hill.

Solo Dining Review: Patio Del Nispero, San Juan is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

On the Bacardi grounds

San Juan, Puerto Rico. Famed for its sun, is beaches, its old city of Spanish colonial architecture and cobblestone streets. . .and rum.  Rum being the most important.  Because of its impact on the economy, of course.  Certainly not because it tastes mighty fine mixed with Coke or anything. (That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.)

Being a fan of the favorite drink of pirates everywhere, I naturally wanted to take the tour of the Bacardi Rum Factory when I was in San Juan, Puerto Rico.  I’d read ahead of time that the tour doesn’t go into the actual factory where the rum is being made, but they give you free admission and two free rum drinks, so what’s not to love?

Catano street facing ferry pier

As I’ve mentioned before, the ferry to Catano (where the factory tour takes place) leaves from Pier 2 in Old San Juan, which is almost directly across the street from Senor Frogs.  It costs $.50 each way.  Once you arrive, you walk out to the street, and someone will direct you toward a shuttle taxi to the Factory/Museum.  This costs $3/person and is about a five minute drive.

What’s great about this taxi is that it’s a van, so as a solo traveler, you’re not footing the whole tab for the taxi ride yourself.  And if you’re as lucky as I was, you might make some new friends on the shuttle.  I met a nice couple from India, Naresh and Tejas, and we hit it off so well, we wound up spending the next several hours together, including lunch back in Old San Juan.

Bacardi hospitality area

At the Bacardi property, you will pick up your drink tickets and have a choice: You can take the tour first, or visit the gift shop, or sit in the hospitality area and have your free rum drinks.  Honestly, I’m not sure how much you’d get out of the tour if you had your drinks first, so I recommend saving that for last. The downside of this tour is that you can only take photos outside and in the lobby.  Once the tour begins in earnest, no photography is allowed.

Entrance to the Bacardi tour--Doesn't it sort of look like Batman's bat signal?

The first thing we learned was the reason why Bacardi has a bat on its label: it’s a fruit bat, a symbol of good luck.  We were shown a brief film of the history of Bacardi (which was founded in Cuba, but moved for political reasons and set up manufacturing in Puerto Rico to avoid import taxes on rum shipped to the US). We viewed a museum-like recreation of a rum factory with stacks of oak casks and the executive office with historical artifacts (letters, pictures, bottles, antique office furniture).  We stopped at a media center with listening booths to learn about various aspects of the rum-making process and more of the history of this company.

Painting in the lobby

Even though it wasn’t an actual factory tour where you could see them making the rum, I still found it pretty interesting and learned a lot.  For instance, did you know that rum doesn’t need to be aged as long in Puerto Rico because of the climate?  I didn’t.  Or that during Prohibition in the US, Americans would fly to Cuba so they could drink rum.  (That is what I call a serious drinking problem! “Oh my God, I need a drink. Let’s fly to Cuba.”)

Finally, we went into a salon area where a bartender named Tomas (who had the most wonderful speaking voice) demonstrated how to make various drinks.  According to Tomas, to make a mojito correctly, you must use spearmint leaves. Good to know.  He described the history of Bacardi and Coke, which, once you add a twist of lime, is known as a “Cuba libra” or “free Cuba” and was trademarked.

Once the tour was over, Naresh, Tejas, and I headed back to the hospitality tent where we enjoyed our free drinks, a warm, sunny day in Puerto Rico, and some good conversation before heading back to Old San Juan for a late lunch.  This day remains one of my fondest memories of my trip to San Juan–mostly because of the friendships I developed that day.  But even discounting that, I have to recommend this tour.  It’s very rare that you find a tour anywhere that is not only free, but comes with 2 free drinks attached.  Add to that the ferry ride, which provides a scenic view of Old San Juan, and you definitely have a trip worth taking.

Bacardi Factory

Bacardi Rum Factory Tour is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

One of my goals for my trip to San Juan was to try mofongo, a local dish made of mashed plantains.  I was finally able to do this one night when I had dinner at Raices, a restaurant on Recinto Sur Street which was recommended to me by both locals and a tourist and seems popular with both.

Raices is located on a busy street not far from the cruise ship docks with lots of foot traffic and plenty of restaurants with outdoor seating.  When I approached the hostess, she asked me if I would like to dine at the bar, and I was delighted they had one, so I said yes.  She led me deep into the restaurant, transporting me back to an earlier era in Puerto Rican history: The staff wear traditional Puerto Rican costumes–head wraps and ruffled skirts for the women, and stylish Panama hats, with loose-fitting, short sleeve shirts and slacks for the men. (I’m sure that part is for the tourists.)

The bar is not in the main dining room, but its own small room.  I assumed there would be others dining at the bar (or at least drinking), but I wound up being the only customer for about twenty minutes, until a couple came in and sat at the far end.  The bar area, like the rest of the restaurant, is decorated in brightly-colored images of Puerto Rican culture.   There is very loud salsa music playing in the background.   The bar stools were made of wicker, and the barback was lined with liquor bottles.  Sadly, they use a machine to make their pina coladas.  I was sitting right next to it.  Sigh.  In any case, I did quite enjoy my mojito–it was very minty with a strong rum and lime taste.  Almost as good as the one at Cafe Berlin.  I ordered water with my meal as well, and it came served in a large tin mug.  Touches like the wicker barstools and the tin mugs really added to the charm of this place.

I knew I would order mofongo here, it was just a matter of which kind.  I decided to go with the mofongo with creole style shrimp and a small side salad. The salad was small, which was fine with me, and despite its simplicity, it hit the spot. But really, it was just a warm-up act for the main show.

The mofongo was served in a wooden vessel that was more like a mug than a bowl, but bigger and without handles.  There was a generous amount of creole shrimp on top of the mofongo and mixed in with it, and it was adorned with a plantain chip.

Having never tried mofongo before, I am at a loss to describe it.  The consistency is mealy, almost like a baked potato, only denser and chewier.  The flavor was mild and not bad, but a bit bland.  Thank God for the creole shrimp, which provided more flavor to the dish.  In any case, I was glad I was able to try it.  It was a huge portion, though, and I couldn’t finish it all.  (Total cost: $27.77 before tip–driven up by the price of the mojito, no doubt.)

Because Raices is situated in the middle of the action in Old San Juan, not far from where the cruise ships dock, it is a busy restaurant and not cheap.  But for a fun atmosphere and good Puerto Rican and Caribbean cuisine, it’s a fine place to dine.  For me, as a solo diner, it would have been more fun if the bar area had been busier.  But that’s not the restaurant’s fault, just the luck of the draw.

So This is Mofongo is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

Eating nothing but Puerto Rican cuisine in Puerto Rico was a goal at which I failed miserably.  There were two nights at the Caribe Hilton when I didn’t feel like taking  a cab somewhere for dinner.  On one of those nights, I had hoped to make new friends at either the Oasis bar or the happy hour bar at Morton’s Steakhouse. But Morton’s bar was packed (no seats) and everyone at the Oasis bar was with a cancer research conference and talking shop.  Times like these try the solo traveler’s soul.  Feeling a bit dejected, I decided to drown my sorrows in a very expensive steak, so back to Morton’s I went.

I have never been to a Morton’s Steakhouse before, though I’ve traveled to cities that have them (Vegas, New York, Chicago, Nashville, Miami, etc.).  I’m pretty frugal and find it hard to justify paying $60+ for a steak when I can get a good one for $25 elsewhere.  But after dining here, I can see it’s not just the quality of the steak that appeals, but the experience.  I was treated like a VIP here for no apparent reason. I confess, I liked it.

The Caribe Hilton

At the Caribe Hilton, Morton’s is housed in a nice space just apart from the main tower of the hotel, with large windows overlooking palm trees and the ocean beyond. In the foyer, there are wine lockers on the wall with engraved name plates for select customers.  There was also a wall of black-and-white photos of celebrities. In the dining room, curved booths with tan leather seats serve couples and small groups, and there are plenty of two-tops as well.  They use food and wine as decor–bottles of Emilio Moro 2004 and Quinta do Vale Meão 2005 line the low walls, as do bowls of raw potatoes and broccoli (no kidding).  Walls are hung with copper fry pans.  Sinatra songs and other old standards play in the background, but can barely be heard above the din of fifty conversations going on at once.

I was seated at a two-top facing the window, but as it was dark out, there was no view.  The open kitchen was behind me, out of sight, but I could hear dishes clanking and smell red meat sizzling.  My table was cozy, with a wall to the left, lined with wine bottles and a vase of fresh flowers of mixed variety.  Sitting atop the white table cloth was a candle that looked like a mini-table lamp, set in the back of a sleeping pig made of pewter.  There was a real lamp just over my left shoulder, which allowed me to read and write without eyestrain. Bonus points for that, Morton’s.

The waiters dress to the nines here, in long-sleeved white shirts and black vests, black slacks and shoes, with a clean black apron around their waists. My waiter arrived at my table with a cart demonstrating various menu items under saran wrap.

The portion sizes were huge.  Among the offerings was a giant Idaho potato that could have fed a family of four, several cuts of steak (including a monstrous 48 oz slab), salmon filet, crab legs, and whole lobster (dead, of course, although it might have been more interesting to see it cut its way out of the saran wrap).  I ordered the cajun ribeye and sauteed green beans.  My waiter brought me a round loaf of bread almost as big as my head and a pat of butter the size of a cheese slice.

The steak was terrific.  Oh-so-tender, juicy, blackened and crusted with cajun seasonings.  They could have gone a little easier on the salt, but it was an absolute joy to eat.  I ordered it medium, and it was still pretty pink inside, which worked for me.  The green beans, on the other hand, were slightly disappointing.  They were sauteed in garlic, which I love, but they tasted fishy for some reason.  Odd.

While my waiter distracted me with the dessert tray, another refilled my water glass without me even noticing.  The desserts looked amazing, but I was so stuffed at that point, any more food would have sent me into the digestive equivalent of threat level orange.   I also declined an after-dinner coffee–until the sommelier came to my table with a tray of bottles and offered me a complimentary after-dinner drink.  How could I resist a free decaf coffee with Caramel Bailey’s?  It was a classy ending to a classy meal.  Interestingly, the Baileys and coffee on the receipt was subtracted with a line item called “VIP”.  “Huh,” I thought. “I’m a VIP?  When did that happen?”

My dinner tab came to $60 something. Like I said, not cheap.  But if you want to treat yourself to an above-average dining experience, it’s worth the money.  As for my experience as a solo diner, it could not have been better. This was a very comfortable restaurant to dine solo in.  Who doesn’t want to be treated like a VIP?

The only misstep Morton’s made, in my opinion, is that every table had a placard on it suggesting that Morton’s cookbooks make a great gift idea for the steak lover in your life.  To me, advertising merchandise at the table screams Dennys, not Morton’s.  Just sayin’.

Eat Like a VIP at Morton’s Steakhouse is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

I just want to go on record as saying that, even though I am a (guilty) carnivore, I do like to go meatless sometimes.  But finding good vegetarian options can often be difficult when traveling.   Before I went to San Juan, I had read about this little cafe that served quite a few vegetarian options called Cafe Berlin.  I never made specific plans to eat there, but as it turned out, it was one of the closest eateries available when I cut short my visit to Fort San Cristobal because my stomach was growling out of control.  (My stomach is a beast. I know better than to make it wait.)

Cafe Berlin is a cute little cafe on Plaza de Colón, very tastefully decorated in warm colors and attractive artwork, with dining inside and out.  It was a very hot and humid day, so I chose to dine inside, where ceiling fans circulated cool air.  While there is a long bar here that would be ideal for solo dining, I chose to sit in the front of the restaurant, which seemed more inviting thanks with its large, sunny windows.  I chose an unobtrusive corner seat so I could spread out my camera gear and journal.

My waitress spoke excellent English, so I didn’t have the opportunity to practice my Spanish, except for trying to eavesdrop on the two women next to me holding a rapid-fire conversation in Spanish, but their speed was beyond my skill level.  Most of the clientele seemed to be tourists, including a table of young women in their twenties, a couple, and a table of three businessmen who asked the waiter to take their picture.  I was the lone solo diner at lunch that day, but it didn’t bother me (or anyone else that I could tell).

The menu is indeed filled with creative vegetarian offerings (many of which are also on the pricey side for lunch).  I decided to go for one of the cheaper options, the aptly named Vegetarian Sandwich, so I could also have a mojito without busting my lunch budget (which I did anyway).   It was a strong and flavorful mojito, packed with mint leaves and lime.  I liked it very much. (No, I don’t know if they made it from a machine.)

The veggie sandwich was also delicious.  It was layered with tomato, sprouts, red onion, lettuce and cucumber slices, served on a soft, warm roll smeared with an excellent hummus that tasted freshly made.  It was served with some tortilla chips on the side.  The amount of food was perfect for me. (Cost: $18.99 before tip.)

My experience here was sort of the opposite of that at Cafeteria Mallorca, where I was in a hurry to get going, but the service was so incredibly slow.  Here, the mojito, my well-fed tummy, and the background music–an eclectic combination of latino music, old standards, and gospel-infused R&B–put me in a relaxed mood that made me wish to linger a bit.   This was the first chance I’d had all day to collect my thoughts in my journal on what I’d seen and experienced so far.

But every time I put down my food and picked up my pen, my waitress was in my face, asking me if everything was all right, if she could get me something else, if I was done eating, would I like the check.  I kept assuring her everything was fine and I’d let her know if I needed anything.  She was incredibly earnest and polite about it, but she didn’t seem to understand that I just wanted to take my time over lunch.  The restaurant wasn’t  full, so I don’t think there was any concern about turning over the table.  Maybe she was worried I was a food critic. I really can’t say.  All I know is, I finally gave up and asked for the check and left.

In any case, if you’re looking for some good grub (including vegetarian) in a nice atmosphere in Old San Juan, you can definitely get it here.  Just don’t expect it to be cheap and don’t expect to linger.

Lunch at Cafe Berlin, San Juan is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

View from El Yunque

Independent travelers often avoid organized group tours in favor of sightseeing on their own.  Sometimes this is because they dislike the idea of being herded around on someone else’s schedule, sometimes it’s to save money, and I’m sure there are a myriad of other reasons.  I am all for saving money when I can, and whenever I can guide myself, I do.  For instance, I didn’t need a tour guide to show me around Old San Juan or Forts El Morro or San Cristobal during my recent trip to Puerto Rico to get a sense of the history of those places.  But sometimes, a group tour is the way to go, especially when you’re traveling solo.  To demonstrate why, I’ll use an example from my recent trip to Puerto Rico.

El Yunque rainforest is the only rainforest in the U.S.  So naturally, when I traveled to San Juan in January, El Yunque was high on my priority list. But I had a choice to make: Should I book an organized tour, which would cost upward of $50, and be stuck with their schedule, or rent a car for far less and go by myself? I’ll admit, I was tempted to rent the car and go it alone, as I was looking for ways to save money and wasn’t sure how much of my day I wanted to spend on the rainforest. But ultimately, I chose to go on an organized tour, and I’m so glad I did. Here’s why.

One of the women on the tour grabbed this little guy off a tree and let him crawl up and down her arm before putting him back.

1. Socializing. Solo travel can sometimes be an isolating experience. I welcome opportunities to interact with others when they arise. Had I rented a car and driven myself, I would have just extended my period of isolation, which might have impacted my enjoyment of El Yunque. Instead, I got to interact with a tour guide and other individuals on the tour with me, including a woman traveling alone whose brother, I learned, lives in Stowe, Vermont (about half an hour from where I live). We hit it off and had some good conversation on the drive down and back.

View from El Yunque

2. Motivation. On the morning of my El Yunque day, it was pouring in San Juan. I know myself well enough to know that, faced with the prospect of  driving 45 minutes to El Yunque, then hiking in the rain by myself, I might not have done it. And I didn’t really have a backup plan for that day. Knowing I had already booked and paid for the tour was all the motivation I needed to get up and go. If I had allowed myself to miss out on an experience like El Yunque, I’d still be kicking myself.

El Portal

3. Let someone else do the driving and navigating. Traffic in Puerto Rico is, shall we say, a tad aggressive compared to Vermont. It didn’t take me very long once I was there to realize that, even with GPS to find my way there, I’d have been very nervous driving myself to El Yunque. By taking a tour, I got to sit back and enjoy the landscape roll by while letting someone else deal with the traffic.   Being somewhat directionally-challenged, I’m also a little skeptical that I would have been successful at hiking through the rainforest without getting hopelessly lost. Thankfully, I didn’t have to worry about that.

Me at Coca Falls

4. Someone to take your picture. The age-old dilemma for solo travelers is wanting photos of yourself in the place you’re visiting, but not having anyone to take them (unless you’re willing to approach total strangers). I didn’t even have to ask. My tour guide volunteered to take my picture in front of Coca Falls and took photos of each of us wearing a goofy hat he made out of a humongous leaf.

Jaime the tour guide

5. Seeing versus learning. Yes, I could have gone to El Yunque alone and seen Coca Falls, stopped by the Visitor Center for the 15 minute film about the rainforest, and gone for a hike in the woods, just like I did with my tour group. But what I would have missed out on was the learning component–and interaction with a local. Jaime, who was my tour guide, lives near El Yunque. He had a great sense of humor and was a wealth of knowledge.

He plucked a plant out of the ground and told us the locals can pick this in their yards and cook with it. He showed us how to crush it between our fingers; it smelled like cilantro.  He also showed us an orange flower and told a funny story about how the boys in his school used to squirt the pods onto girls because it smelled like pee.  (Proving that boys will be boys, no matter where you go.)   He pointed out a tree with large leaves, white on one side and green on the other. They use it like the Weather Channel, Jaime said: If the white side is showing, it’s going to storm. (We do this in Vermont, too.)

Jaime also told us he was a former newspaperman and regaled us with the tale of how some farm animals turned up dead, minus the blood, one day and the paper published a story of how the Chupacabra was on the loose.  They sold a lot of papers with that headline.   I could have listened to his stories all day. I wouldn’t have gotten any of that had I gone to El Yunque on my own.

Yokahu Lookout Tower

For me, the extra $25-40 it cost to take the tour (plus a tip for Jaime) was well worth it.  It was one of the best things I did in San Juan.  If you should find yourself in search of a good tour to El Yunque during your trip to San Juan, the tour desk at the Caribe Hilton has a great reputation and a wide variety of tours.

5 Reasons to Take an Organized Tour is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

The centerpiece of the courtyard is a very old and large nispero tree, which bears a small, round, fruit. There is something appealing about an old large tree growing in the center of a hotel courtyard.  It adds character.  (As if El Convento needed any more character than it already has.)

Nispero Tree in El Convento Courtyard

One night, I sat in one of the cozy seating areas in the open hallway, enjoying the night air, and heard a persistent squeaking sound and felt a whoosh of air as something flew by my head. Then a second missile flew past.  I could hear the whirring of wings. They were bats, drawn by the tree–or, more specifically, the tree’s small, round, golden-colored fruit. There might have been a day when this would freak me out (I mean, EEK! BATS!), but after seeing countless news items on TV about this white-nose fungus that’s been killing off bats by the millions in the northeast US, I have come to appreciate the role of the bat in our fragile ecosystem.  I was more than happy to share the nispero tree with them, so long as they ate bugs as well as fruit.

My friend Osvaldo Soler, Reservations Manager at the hotel, told me that years ago, when the new gardener arrived at the hotel, the tree was dying.  She lovingly revived it and now it thrives, almost as tall as the hotel itself.  In fact, if you stand on the fifth  floor, you could reach out and pick some fruit from it.  I’m not sure how edible it is, though, or what it tastes like, so do so at your own risk.  Me, I’d prefer to sit in its shade with a cool drink, a good book, and some soothing music playing in the background.

Note: I was a guest at El Convento at a discount media rate in January 2010.

Snapshot of San Juan: The Nispero Tree is a post from: SoloFriendly.com

El Convento

Anyone who says that to have a luxury hotel experience, you must sacrifice character, history, and culture hasn’t stayed at El Convento. This boutique luxury hotel, located on Calle Cristo in the heart of Old San Juan, is one of the city’s oldest structures.  Founded in 1651, it served as a convent for 250 years.  The convent’s closing in 1903 ushered in several decades of a colorful, but sad, history:  After laying abandoned for years, it was rented out as a retail store, a dance hall, a flophouse, and a parking garage for garbage trucks.  Today, it has been restored to its historic glory.  You can easily picture what the convent might have been like in its heyday, with the open hallways, interior courtyard and Spanish arches everywhere.  It has, over the past decade, earned a reputation as being the creme-de-la-creme of San Juan hotels. For the solo traveler on a large budget, it is my recommendation as the place to stay in San Juan.

El Convento Foyer

Beware: If you stay here, you might be tempted never to leave the hotel.  But that would be a shame, because it is ideally located in Old San Juan, across the street from the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista and within walking distance of the lovely Paseo de Princessa along the water and historic sites such as Forts El Morro and San Cristobal.  Spend the day wandering the cobblestone streets of Old San Juan, admiring the Spanish colonial architecture and soaking up the history and culture of this port city. When you return to the hotel, you will feel as though you are living in the past–but with all the luxuries and amenities of the present.

Sitting Area off the Lobby

The public rooms are adorned with exquisite tapestries, antique furniture, and marble floors.  Your room key is no plastic key card, but a real key on a heavy metal key chain engraved with an image of the hotel.  There are keyed gates separating the public areas (restaurants, function rooms, and courtyard) from the hallways to the rooms–which should make all guests feel secure, but especially the solo female traveler.

Keyed Gate Between Public and Private Areas

The rooms are tastefully decorated–rich upholstery, wrought-iron lamps, a settee at the foot of the bed, thick area rug, and Andalusian floor tiles in a terra cotta color. The high ceilings feature mahogany beams, and my room had a recessed archway.  The bathrooms are small, but attractive and clean, and perfectly sized for the solo traveler.  Turn-down service is provided.

Narrow glass shelf in bathroom for your toiletries

The rooms have the expected amenities such as in-room safe, coffee maker, refrigerator, flat panel TV, and air conditioning (though some instructions on how to adjust it would be welcome).  Do you like to sleep in on vacation? No problem. The beds are comfortable and come with lots of thick pillows. And nine a.m. will look like midnight as long as the floor-to-ceiling drapes and window shutters are drawn closed.

Room 210

The room also has a soundproof interior door which was put to the test my first night there. A loud band played at the front of the hotel for the San Sebastian Street Festival and could be heard all the way to my room. But when I closed the soundproof door, I could only faintly hear the bass. I loved this door.  I wish all hotels would install them.

Soundproof Interior Room Door

Every morning I would draw open the shutters, and enjoy the view of a tiny back street  that served as a constant reminder that I was in beautiful Old San Juan.

Charming view from Room 210 at the El Convento

If you don’t feel like venturing out for your meals, the hotel has some  restaurants on-site serving traditional Puerto Rican cuisine.  I can recommend El Picoteo tapas bar for mojitos and a light dinner overlooking the courtyard, and Patio del Nispero for a scrumptious courtyard breakfast. An honors bar on the third floor offers free coffee if you prefer a liquid breakfast.

Outside Entrance to El Picoteo

El Convento has all the facilities of a luxury hotel, including a spa, fitness facility (with brand new equipment and flooring), a business center with internet access, and a fourth floor plunge pool and jacuzzi. You don’t have to miss out on the Puerto Rican beach experience, either: They have an arrangement with two sister hotels (one in Condado and one in Isla Verde) for guests who want to spend the day at the beach.

El Convento Plunge Pool

I found one of the most delightful features to be the fifth floor patio.  You can lounge in the sun and read in this quiet refuge, surrounded by the hotel’s herb and vegetable garden.  You might even see one of the chefs come out to collect ingredients for that night’s dinner.

Baby chili peppers are among the vegetables grown on the fifth floor

Daily between 6 and 7pm, the hotel hosts a wine and cheese reception on La Veranda Terrace on the third floor. This offers an opportunity to mingle with the manager and other hotel guests, or simply grab a bite to eat before heading out for the evening.  I enjoyed relaxing over a glass of wine and chatting with some other guests as we watched the sun go down.  I could not imagine a more perfect ending to a day in San Juan.

What I loved the most, aside from the luxury and rich character of the hotel, was the warmth of the staff to this solo traveler.  Everyone I came in contact with smiled readily and was friendly and eager to be of help.  The bilingual front desk staff (who double as concierge) were especially knowledgeable and patient with my questions. When I asked for a recommendation of a restaurant in Old San Juan with live entertainment, they booked a dinner reservation for me at Carli’s Cafe Concierto, a lovely restaurant with live jazz piano (which turned out to be a great choice).

I’ve stayed at four- and five-star hotels many times before, and while the staffs of those hotels were always professional, they sometimes lacked the warmth and familiarity of, say, the staff at a small B&B.  El Convento strives to maintain that “small hotel” feel, and it succeeds.  One of my fellow guests summed it up perfectly:  “It’s luxurious without feeling stuffy.”

I stayed at El Convento in January 2010 at a discount media rate.  The cost was still more than I normally spend on hotel accommodations. . .and it was worth every penny.

El Convento: Luxury for the Solo Traveler is a post from: SoloFriendly.com