Caribe Hilton Beach

On every trip I take, I learn a little bit more about my travel style, my likes and dislikes. On my trip to San Juan, I came to the startling revelation that generic chain resorts–especially if they’re not within easy walking distance of the local culture, a variety of dining options, and nighttime entertainment–are not for me.  Why is this startling?  Because I’ve often preferred resorts in the past. I like the idea of having multiple restaurant and entertainment options all under one roof (ala Las Vegas), so at the end of the day, I don’t have to go anywhere if I don’t want to. Ah, but there’s the rub: Having options. Without those options, resorts can feel more like a prison to me.

Honestly, I thought I’d learned my lesson years ago when I stayed at an all-inclusive resort on the Riveria Maya in Mexico, a resort that was gorgeous, but so remote from anything else it was a hassle getting anywhere.  There was very little to do at night (one event was scheduled every night and if it didn’t appeal to you, too bad).  I hated feeling trapped on site.  I like staying in the center of cities, where I can walk out my door and go find a new adventure, either within walking distance, or a cheap and easy train or bus ride away.

Calle del Cristo, Old San Juan

I wanted to go to San Juan because of the history and the culture.  I wanted to practice my Spanish, I wanted to see the forts and cobblestone streets of Old San Juan, and photograph the Spanish architecture. I wanted to visit the rainforest.  I wanted to sample classic Puerto Rican dishes.  I wanted to go somewhere to hear live salsa or flamenco music at night.

For the first two nights, I stayed at El Convento, in the heart of Old San Juan, across the street from the San Juan Cathedral.  It was an exquisitely perfect hotel: Luxurious without being stuffy and housed in a former Carmelite Convent with a history going back to 1651.  El Convento has character to spare.  The location in Old San Juan allowed me easy walking access to historical sites by day and many Puerto Rican restaurants, as well as live entertainment at night.  If I could have stayed there all five nights, believe me, I would have.  But even with the media rate they gave me, I couldn’t afford it.  Traveling alone as I was, I had no one to split the cost with me.

El Convento

In retrospect, when I left El Convento, I should have moved to a less expensive hotel right in Old San Juan (something like the Hotel Casablanca or Hotel Milano), since that was the part of San Juan that appealed to me the most.  But I thought it would be good to experience the local beach scene as well, so instead, I bid on Priceline for a beach resort. My bid was accepted for the Caribe Hilton, which is located in a slightly isolated locale between Old San Juan and Condado.

The Hilton is a beautiful property, don’t get me wrong.  When I walked into my room and saw the balcony and the view from the balcony, I squealed like an excited little girl.  I wandered the grounds taking photos and marveling at how beautiful everything was.  But in the long run, I really didn’t feel like just lazing around by the pool. I didn’t have time if I wanted to see the rainforest, and go on a tour of the Bacardi rum factory, and all that. So other than having something pretty to look at, it was wasted on me.

Caribe Hilton Swim-Up Bar

And when meal time rolled around, I found myself very perturbed by the fact that the Hilton has no restaurants on site that offer traditional Puerto Rican cuisine.  Oh, sure, the newly-opened Pina Colada Club has some Puerto Rican items on it, like mashed plantains, but it’s more of a Caribbean-themed sports bar and offers essentially the same food I can get at any sports bar in the U.S.  The other on-site restaurants included Morton’s Steakhouse, a pan-Asian restaurant, an Italian restaurant, and a restaurant that served a very mediocre  buffet breakfast. They were all ridiculously expensive.

If I’m going to stay at a resort, I at least want to know the facilities have what I’m looking for at the end of the day, and the Hilton did not.  It also had no live salsa music at night (like the Marriott does), so other than grab a drink at the bar, there was nothing to do there.  As a solo traveler, sitting at the bar sipping alcohol all night with no one to talk to just sounds sad to me.  This left me with the choice of do nothing or go elsewhere.

Going elsewhere was an issue, as there was nothing within easy walking distance of the Hilton (especially when you’re dressed up at night).  So if I wanted Puerto Rican food or entertainment, I had to take a bus or taxi to either Condado or Old San Juan.  The bus was too unreliable for me to chance it at night, and at $12 cab fare each way, taking a taxi really drove up the cost of  an evening out.

I couldn’t help but wonder. . .Why would the Hilton have a resort in such a culturally rich setting and not take greater advantage of it by offering a traditional Puerto Rican experience on site for its guests?  The staff spoke perfect English, and aside from their claim to be the birthplace of the Pina Colada, the hotel really had no character that shouted”This is Puerto Rico!” If you blindfolded someone and plunked them down in a lounge chair out by the pool facing the ocean at the Caribe Hilton, they would have no idea whether they were in Puerto Rico or Miami or Cancun or the Virgin Islands.  It’s that generic.

All in all, I was disappointed by this.  I’m sure there are people who go to San Juan and just want a relaxing beach vacation where they don’t have to go to the trouble of learning a new language or navigating a different culture, and for them (as long as price were no object), the Hilton would be ideal.  (Although I would then question why they’re spending the money to go so far as Puerto Rico when they could easily have the same generic experience closer to home…)  But when I go to a place like Puerto Rico, I want more from my experience than a beautiful pool area and a hotel room balcony. I want the culture, and I want it in an affordable package. But at least I know that about myself now.

Caribe Hilton Pool