The Sadie Katz Deli is located at 189 Bank Street in Burlington, Vermont in a small, one-story shoebox building.  It’s a throwback to the old train car diners of the 1950s with sleek, narrow lines of red and silver chrome and evenly-spaced windows. It may be physically dwarfed by the three-story brick structures around it, but it is actually more of a legend than any of them.

The Sadie Katz Deli is a relatively new tenant in this space, formerly occupied by the Oasis Diner.  The Oasis was an institution in Burlington, a place where political discussion and debate took place on a daily basis.  It was well-known that if you wanted to take the pulse on any issue in Vermont politics, you should go to the Oasis and listen.  All the former Vermont Governors since the 1960s frequented the diner. President Bill Clinton even had lunch here when passing through Vermont in 1995.

That was when the Lines family owned it.  For decades, you could find Stratty Lines behind the counter in his white apron and peaked chefs cap, holding court with the regulars over the daily newspaper.  His sons Jon and David worked there as well. Over a decade ago, back when I lived in downtown Burlington, I had breakfast at the Oasis on a weekly basis. I haven’t been in the space in years, and not since the Lines family sold it to its new owners.

I love a restaurant with counter seating

I finally had the opportunity to go sample breakfast at the Sadie Katz Deli on a recent Sunday morning.  On the surface, not much has changed about the place.  Even the Formica countertop, with its pattern of boomerang shapes, was the same. Seven booths line the east wall, separated by a mere few feet from the green vinyl stools lining the counter; it makes the diner feel either cozy or claustrophobic, depending on your point of view.  It also makes it easier for the staff to get food on the table quickly.  Speed is of the essence in a place like this. Behind the counter, they are prepared for a rush:  Rows of glasses and coffee mugs and stacks of takeout containers sit at the ready, along with pitchers of iced tea and orange juice.

What’s different?  The menu seems a bit healthier and naturally now features Jewish deli menu items on it (latkes, lox, matzoh ball soup, pastrami, reubens and rachels, knishes–you can even add a “schmere” of liver to any sandwich).  The short counter and cash register at the front of the restaurant has been replaced by a deli/take-out counter staffed by two friendly young men.  You pay your waitress now, instead of bringing the check to the cash register yourself, which helps alleviate the former bottleneck that would occur near the front door.  And of course, the staff has completely changed.  But the prices are still cheap, the food good, and the atmosphere still warm and cozy.

I snagged a stool at the counter, facing an orange juicing machine, stacked with a row of oranges just waiting to be liquified. Above the counter was  a sign advertising their milkshakes including a creamsicle shake and a “monkey-something-or-other” with chocolate, banana and peanut butter.  It took several minutes for my waitress to notice me, but once she did, she was a model of efficiency.  I knew what I wanted already, having perused the menu online at home.  I ordered the greek three-egg omelet, which came with my choice of bread (English muffin) and a latke.

Greek Omelet with latke and English muffin

I dug into my food immediately upon arrival.  The omelet was stuffed with spinach, Kalamata olives, and feta cheese–very Greek indeed, and also a touch too salty.  But it was tasty and gets a thumbs up from me. The English muffin was also good.  The latke was pretty bland, but then I’ve never had a latke before, so I have no basis for comparison.

Summary:  Something Lost, Something Found

What did I find at the Sadie Katz Deli?  A new favorite breakfast spot.  There’s little I like more in a restaurant than good food (and plenty of it) at cheap prices.  Breakfast cost me $6 something.  If you want a solid, cheap breakfast in Burlington, with a bit of old-time diner charm and history thrown in for good measure, I’d recommend it.

What was lost?  During the course of breakfast, I noticed the biggest difference of all:  Lack of substantive conversation–political or otherwise–between people at the counter and the staff.  I understood it, but it made me a little sad.  It’s like going back to your childhood home and seeing all the changes the new owners have made to it.  It’s never the same again.  I wonder where all those political junkies eat now?